Jump to content
SAU Community

JOINT R31 Dyno Day !@! 28th Sep. CONFIRMATION NEEDED THIS MONTH


Recommended Posts

Sorry Guys,

I haven't been Able to post for a while, as i have had some troubles remembering my password :P

Well The Time is Drawing Nearer And We Need To Get Some Definate Numbers To Ensure That The Day Will Be Going Ahead.

If You Would Like To Send An E-Mail [email protected] With Dyno DAY in the Subject, And Then Confirm That You Will Be Present And What Car You Will Be Putting On The Dyno...

This Should Be A Good Day Providing That We Get The Numbers To Make The Day A Success.

Please Have E-Mails Confirmed By The End Of This Month.

Regards,

Ashley Neal.

www.r31skylineclub.com

[email protected]

http://www.r31skylineclub.com/forum...y;threadid=3977

Hope To Catchup Soon Paul.

. . .

Regards,

Ashley Neal

Edit.......OOps!!! Wrong Thread

It is on barring torrential rain . Gates open 8am. I believe it is $40 for 1/2 day $55 for full day. No special licence reqired, car and driver set up as for drags ie non flammable neck to wrist to ankle and helmet, fire extinguisher is advised but not reqired.

BUT be aware they will be monitering exhaust noise level,..... over 95Decibels and you won't be running until you quieten it down. Place should be easy to find ...follow highway into town watch for Morgan Park sign on the left. Still hav'nt found out if BP Ultimax or Shell Optimax is available in Warrick so last available is on Ipswich highway at Gailes for Shell just before the Logan Expressway joins on and BP 2or3 K's futher on.

15L of Toluene in a tank full would bring Premium at 96 octane safely up past 98oct

Hi There Guys,

I Have a Time Ready

9:00am Dyno Commence. - So I would have to say that it should be 8:30-8:45 Arrival @ All Star Performance @ their new Shop. In Zilmere Road Virginia -

Address 194 Zilmere Road.

Contact : Ashley Neal

[email protected]

0413-491-847

Steven Dyal

0419-767-498

I have So Far Recieved 17 People Confirmed To Come To Make This Possible we need to have 30+ people I'm still waiting on hearing back from the Z car club and Datsun Clubs.

So If you Would Like A Place Please email a confirmation so that you can secure a run for 20$.

This will give you a full read out of the car and how it is performing.

Regards,

Ashley Neal.

www.r31skylineclub.com

[email protected]

  • 3 weeks later...

I already have my name down for this one.

I just got my new clutch in, I was worried for a while there that I wouldnt get it in time for the dyno day as it had to come from sydney from japan I picked it up wednesday arvo and started fitting it 6:00pm I had the car running 1:05am Thursday morning, including new oil in the diff, gearbox and motor + Filter. Not too bad considering I fitted it all on my lonesome.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...