Jump to content
SAU Community

New Turbo For Rb25det / Off Ebay

AKW

By AKW,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

AKW Enthusiast

AKW

Posted
Posted

I would like to know your opinion on what would be the best thing to get off of ebay or otherwise. I have around 700$ *USD* and since I am in the land of Garrett I can get some cheap-er. I am just lost as to which direction to go. I am only looking to push 12-16 pounds of boost really. I have a series 1.5 GTST R33 and it has a FMIC, 3", and a HKS Super Induction intake (AKA the mushroom).

If you could be so kind as to link me to some good bolt on turbos or some with a kit to block off water cooling... just something to the sort I would apreciate it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232231-new-turbo-for-rb25det-off-ebay/
Share on other sites
bluey33 Experienced

bluey33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Get another $300 and buy a power FC... Then save for tune.

Don't buy a cheap turbo, as it will be SHIT and you don't have supporting mods for it.

Or buy some second hand coilovers.

Edited by bluey33
AKW Enthusiast

AKW

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Dude, the point here is that I need a turbo, not that I need a tune...

The seals on this turbo are going bad. I don't need to go overboard... besides, we have a wideband and an SAFCII.

The Series 2 engine's turbo sucks... the seals are f**ked and I have no one to rebuild the internals.... so, I need a new turbo. Unless someone has another suggestion?

Also, thanks for the help mate... it is just I am a tad bit tired if all that sounded harsh. I am going to bed.. I will be back soon... and a single 800$ turbo isn't cheap. It would be for a "kit" from HKS or something. But an 800$ turbo... not cheap.

Oh, and I have the 800 I just want a 700 if possible. Even if it is 1000 f**k it and show it to me.. goodnight.

Edit...

My car has Tein all the way around it... that has nothing to do with a turbo either...

Edited by AKW
bluey33 Experienced

bluey33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well looks like you forgot to INFORM us of what you really have.

$800 is cheap, even if a second hand HKS item (goodluck finding one at that price)

You could prob get a bush bearing turbo rebuilt for $1300

Or wait for a second hand Highflow to come along

but here ya go:

turbo kit

Turbo - buy lines, dump etc.

turbo

Stock turbo's don't "suck", many have lasted 250,000+km and 15years.

Edited by bluey33
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

as the others have said if you cant afford a good one get a stocker replacement

but both options have their inherit risks - ie 2nd hand stocker vs new el-cheap/chinese turbo

have a read of the ebay link in my signature about buying cheap chinese turbos from ebay

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

$400 installed sounds reasonable, for a stock turbo, provided he does a proper job.

25K miles sounds like bullshit though, considering the car is 14yrs old. Still could be a good turbo as i have seen other stock turbos last over 150,000km

116.hks Community Regular

116.hks

Posted
Posted

how ya going mate. i would definetly stay with getting a stock turbo replace your worn turbo. i have seen first hand what happens when you buy cheap chinese type turbos. not pretty. lets just say your exhaust wont rust. lol. i agree with the others. save up and buy a decent plug in type computer, but you could also do minor up grades such as fuel pump, fuel reg and a decent flowing exhaust if you don't already have one. turbo upgrade without management is pointless. for 400 i would probly buy that turbo to get me out of trouble. good luck.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
$400 installed sounds reasonable, for a stock turbo, provided he does a proper job.

25K miles sounds like bullshit though, considering the car is 14yrs old. Still could be a good turbo as i have seen other stock turbos last over 150,000km

I was going off "pick up ... $400 installed" :(

So im assuming thats supply and fit... i could be wrong though as its a little ambiguous.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • The Bogan
      SAU NSW - R U OK? Southern Highlands Cruise

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...