Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I own a skyline gtst and people are always trying to drag race me with 4wd cars. Gtrs, Pulsar gtir ,evo's ,ecpilse etc.

First of all i do know that Gtrs are the top dogs. and I'm planning on buying one in the coming future.

If it wasn't for this unit i would stand a chance.

check the link out and please give use you thoughts on the unit.

http://www.world-motorsports.com/products.php

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I own a skyline gtst and people are always trying to drag race me with 4wd cars. Gtrs, Pulsar gtir ,evo's ,ecpilse etc.

First of all i do know that Gtrs are the top dogs. and I'm planning on buying one in the coming future.

If it wasn't for this unit i would stand a chance.

check the link out and please give use you thoughts on the unit.

http://www.world-motorsports.com/products.php

Its not clear to me how exactly this thing works. I like the operating method of the Jaycar boost controller which is triggered by the duty cycle of the injectors and can absolutely eliminate any boost going to the wastegate actuator until you want it to. I am about to install my Jaycar EBC (at about half the price of the above - although that is for the build it yourself kit) - people who have used them say they work as described so sounds ideal to me.

This is not to say that the new device mentioned above is no good - it is just not clear to me that it would be better.

I own a skyline gtst and people are always trying to drag race me with 4wd cars. Gtrs, Pulsar gtir ,evo's ,ecpilse etc.

First of all i do know that Gtrs are the top dogs. and I'm planning on buying one in the coming future.

If it wasn't for this unit i would stand a chance.

check the link out and please give use you thoughts on the unit.

http://www.world-motorsports.com/products.php

Its a boost controller

Its the same as any other boost controller - it controls boost.

So whats your point?

Its no better than anything else save for the expensive price tag

I own a skyline gtst and people are always trying to drag race me with 4wd cars. Gtrs, Pulsar gtir ,evo's ,ecpilse etc.

Yep they will do that.

So let them race themselves on the street and save your fun for the race track where it belongs.

That boost controller has nothing special about it at all.

Eclipse? As in the Mitsi? I thought they were FWD?

Read before you talk the same advice that you gave me then you'll see the benefits

lol so what everyone at performance mag. don't know what there talking about.

(ignorant as i thought.)

see if any GTRs can hit these times

This is a 4WD eclipse and this is one of his bad times

keep on dreaming GTR fans show me something better. (thats real)

I'll give you the world wide web to find a GTR as fast as this, don't even think hks skyline. when you all find one, I'll show you the last video thats not on the net.

so step up

I own a skyline gtst and people are always trying to drag race me with 4wd cars. Gtrs, Pulsar gtir ,evo's ,ecpilse etc.

First of all i do know that Gtrs are the top dogs. and I'm planning on buying one in the coming future.

If it wasn't for this unit i would stand a chance.

check the link out and please give use you thoughts on the unit.

http://www.world-motorsports.com/products.php

Dude why are you showing clips of 7 second prepped drag cars as an argument why a boost controller (which is the same as any other) gives them an "edge"?

For the record, the fastest GTR @ present i believe is the 7.57 @ 191mph by the Heat Treatments GTR.

Is that not faster than the vids you posted?

Or am i again, missing something magical and elusive?

I honestly think you have NFI what your talking about

let me guess was it build in australia.? lol

the car has ran a 7 sec flat and keep in mind that everything about the car is quarter the size and price.? i guess you can't beat that.

i guess that is why the australian dollar lost its value.lol in the last 10 years keep up the good work guy's thats why the japs rule there more open minded. selfdevlopment, most of you should work on that.

let me guess was it build in australia.? lol

the car has ran a 7 sec flat and keep in mind that everything about the car is quarter the size and price.? i guess you can't beat that.

i guess that is why the australian dollar lost its value.lol in the last 10 years keep up the good work guy's thats why the japs rule there more open minded. selfdevlopment, most of you should work on that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...