Jump to content
SAU Community

300hp Stock Turbo Can It Be Done?

sickr33

By sickr33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

sickr33 Rising Star

sickr33

Posted
Posted

hi i am on a mission to break the 300hp mark with standard turbo

has it been done before?

i hear that some of you have 290hp but haven’t herd for 300hp

please leave any thoughts and or comments

and yes i have searched for hours

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232494-300hp-stock-turbo-can-it-be-done/
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

If you have the money to replace the turbo, yes it can be done. The question is how long will it last? One dyno run, a few, a week, a month, a year, who knows?

I have heard of people running 16psi on std turbo, expecting it to blow, as they were ready to upgrade, then it lasted for years and made about 300hp.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

It can be done.

Go to the dyno operator, tell him you wanna see 300rwhp.

He can play with some settings and *ta-da* you have 300rwhp.

Can you do it legitimately?

No. 290 is wrong also. Add to the fact you'd NEVER tell the different between 10rwhp anyway.

Stock turbo is good for a legitimate 190-200rwkw 12psi or so (260-270rwhp).

No one has ever run 110mph to backup the 220rwkw/300rwhp on a stock turbo to my knowldge anyway.

EDIT: Obviously with no2 and so on that changes the ball game, so does race fuel.

202.3rwkw Contributor

202.3rwkw

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey mate.

I did make 220rwkw and it was still going over a year later. As nismoid has raised, I never did run it at the track but the 220 was very real. IE no tuner influence or funny air temps. It can be done, but just be aware that u are pushing the limit of turbo reliability.

good luck,

glenn

i have a dyno graph but it wont let me upload.........

Edited by 202.3rwkw
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Ash 12psi is the "safer" boost limit for a std turbo, but it doesn't mean that some std turbo's aren't able to run higher boost without exploding. It's a game of Russian roulette, as some turbos just come out stronger than others during manufacturing.

At 12psi i have seen these turbos make anywhere between 180-210rwkw. Push the turbo harder and you may make 220rwkw/300rwhp, but it fast runs out of it's efficiency range, hence why 4psi extra may only make an extra 10-15rwkw.

daxter Enthusiast

daxter

Posted
Posted

I know of someone who was making 220rwkw with the stock turbo, it ended up spinning apart and bits of metal went through the intercooler and into the engine, now he has to get a rebuild.

Make sure you get the turbo high-flowed. The ceramic parts are just to weak.

~R33AzzA~ Proficient

~R33AzzA~

Posted
Posted
I know of someone who was making 220rwkw with the stock turbo, it ended up spinning apart and bits of metal went through the intercooler and into the engine, now he has to get a rebuild.

Make sure you get the turbo high-flowed. The ceramic parts are just to weak.

How did it get in the engine?? The ceramic wheel is in exhaust side of the turbo. Hence you would find the broken parts in the cat.

daxter Enthusiast

daxter

Posted
Posted
How did it get in the engine?? The ceramic wheel is in exhaust side of the turbo. Hence you would find the broken parts in the cat.

I'm not exactly sure how it would work, but when his turbo blew bits of it got sucked though and into the engine.

Richieb Collaborator

Richieb

Posted
Posted

Guessing(using my head too..!) here, ....

.....but as the turbine disintegrates, this will cause a sudden huge loss of forced air volume on the compressor side toward the inlet, the engine will pull anything in(as avacuum state exists in cylinder/s), .. from ANY side, inlet or exhaust, and given there is valve overlap, and late closing exhuast valves in the equation, this would leave the door to take in 'nasty bits', wide open.

It has got to be something like this i guess. I have yet to have it logically explained, ...so this is my 'stab' at it.

TBH.. just a small amount in the cylinder/s will make things get expensive too.

I suppose logically it should spit it out the 'zorst, but historically this is not the case.

You hear the tales about it, and the result products,.. but yeeeeap, someone correct me if am wrong... enlighten me..!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW 335i

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW 335i

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...