Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I have been hearing a rattle from my engine and was wondering if you guys can help diagnose the prob? From reading others post in the forum I have come to the conclusion that is either lifters or an exhaust leak, maybe from the videos included you guys can help me diagnose better. Listen carefully and you can hear the rattle, 1)

2)

All suggestions are welcome and thanks for the help.

woah ..thats a very noisy engine. I'm no expert so i won't make any guessess... However my 34 GTT had/has a bit of lifter noise (mostly fixed up by oil change to thicker oil 10W40 recently) but it sounded like this one

I'm not sure why but your engine seems very noisy (almost like a V8 or a rexxy) and nothing like the lifter tapping noise as in the vid above

Edited by Delta Force
woah ..thats a very noisy engine. I'm no expert so i won't make any guessess... However my 34 GTT had/has a bit of lifter noise (mostly fixed up by oil change to thicker oil 10W40 recently) but it sounded like this one

I'm not sure why but your engine seems very noisy (almost like a V8 or a rexxy) and nothing like the lifter tapping noise as in the vid above

HMMMMMMM yea after watching that vid my engine does seem a whole lot louder than the engine in that vid. I am open to all suggestions so please let me hear them. Did the coilpack test all the coilpacks change the note of the engine so that means they are good or at least working and I am running all six cylinders. So please people help me out.

it sounds like your engine is idling normally, but its pretty damn loud. My first impression is exhaust leakage.

What is it like to drive?

My lifters are noisy when i start the car in very cold weather; sounds quite similar to the clip Denis posted. After a couple of minutes of idling the noise disappears

it sounds like your engine is idling normally, but its pretty damn loud. My first impression is exhaust leakage.

What is it like to drive?

My lifters are noisy when i start the car in very cold weather; sounds quite similar to the clip Denis posted. After a couple of minutes of idling the noise disappears

Well It still makes great power, haven't had it dynoed but it still feels responsive and it pulls nicely. Only prob I am having is when boosting at wot the car kinda surges and it doesn't get the 9psi quickly enough for me and if I run third or fourth gear out it overboost get like 13 psi towards the end of the rpm say like about by 6000 rpm or so, but I figure thats because the ebc is not configured correctly. The noise doesn't go away and upon inspecting my car I noticed that two of the bolts off the exhaust manifold are missing so far, at least from what I can see the first and last bolt.

I'd say so since they're part of the head ... try thicker oil first, that has fixed noisy lifters for a lot of people myself included (well fixed it 90%) I use Hi-Tec 10W40 (but any brand of the same viscosity should do the trick)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...