Bicycle Thread

[BoyWhoCriedWolf]

cannondale likes to crack.

i cracked a blue f400 way back in 05.

What do you think about that Marc?

[mad082]

doesn't suprise me, but you can crack any frame if you do the right/wrong thing

[Mr Eps]

i will say that my new cannondale's frame doesn't feel as BULLETPROOF as my giant...

that said

it's a track frame for "road" intentions (but realistically it's just a trackbike with pretty colours)

it's not built for being thrown at walls and dropped out of planes

so i think being that it's only going to get speed and road treatment i think it's a good purchase

fyi - i now have the capo - and it's FKING fast!!!! if there's no wind it's easy to get it up to about 55/60odd km/h if you're down on the drops - i can't remember a time i've travelled that fast without a downslope

so

while i won't say the frame is as tough as the giant

i WILL say that the bike weighs 7kg. and goes like a rocket on rohypnol

and that's what it's designed for =)

and don't bother changing the cassette - it's a DH bike!!! unless you're using it for commuting distances... if that's the case then yeah go for it ... but i would also consider changing the ratio and getting another 8speed - that's what im doing with my dad's bike thanks for the advice marc!

[xALmoN]

a dude i know even broke a chase within half a year doing what it was meant for, street.

But i actually liked how the f400 handled.

[mad082]

i know a guy who has gone through about 6 road bike frames. snaps the bottom bracket out of them. he doesn't treat them rough, he is just a very strong sprinter. he has used pretty much every major brand and still keeps braking them. it is just a simple fact that there becomes a point where light = weak. at the bottom of the market lighter will usually mean stronger because better materials are being used, but once you get to the top of the market (and in some brands only halfway through the market) they start making them too light. a mate of mine who owns a bmx brand ended up making his frames about half a kg heavier (went from 1.7kg to 2.2kg) and then offered lifetime warranty on the stronger frames because all the lighter prototype frames snapped.

[JAS-25T]

By "bottom bracket" do you mean the rear hub connection point? or the pedal crack connection?

[mad082]

bottom bracket is the bit the crank arms attatch to.

[mad082]

ok so here is a bit of a list of some of the more obscure bike parts that people either don't really know or get mixed up.

bottom bracket: the part of the bike that the pedals attatch to, located at the bottom of the seat tube. this can be both the shell (the part of the frame) or the bearing, etc. some bikes use a cartridge system (bearings and spindle/axle are all in 1 unit), others will use seperate bearings from the spindle.

seat tube: the part of the frame the seat post/pillar goes into.

seat post: the bit the seat clamps to

seat post clamp; the clamp on the frame to stop the seat post moving

seat clamp: the part on either the seat or the seat post to clamp the seat to the post.

head tube: the part of the frame the forks go into

top tube: the top..... errr tube that runs from the seat tube to the head tube

down tube: runs from the head tube to the bottom bracket.

chain stays: run from the bottom backet to the rear wheel

seat stays: run from the top of the seat tube to the rear wheel

dropouts: the piece at the end of the chain/seat stays and at the bottom of the forks that the wheels go into.

steerer tube: the tube of the forks that comes up through the head tube

head set: the bearings that go in the head tube

head stem: the stem that goes from the steerer tube to the handlebars (often mixed up with head set)

rim: the outer rim of the wheel. this does not include the hub and spokes. if you are talking about the rim, hub and spokes, that is the wheel.

freehub & cassette: some wheels use a cassette gear system (8 speed and above, and some of the older 6 and 7 speeds). this is where the cogs slide onto a part on the hub called the freehub body. the freehub body has the freewheel/ratchet mechanism built in to it 9slightly different design on bmx's). this makes the axles stonger.

freewheel: this is when the cogs and ratchet mechanism are all in the one unit and they simply screw onto the hub.

brake levers and calipers: brake levers are the bits on the handlebars, the calipers are the bits that move the pads against the rim/disc

[JAS-25T]

you got a bit lazy at the end there......grouping two items together.

Pick up your game carnt........you're business relys on it!

[mad082]

oh well in that case, that will be $35 for that knowledge, LOL

[BoyWhoCriedWolf]

just after some further clarification on the top tube part my good man

[mad082]

that's the one at the top kenny

[xALmoN]

the tube of the frame nearest to your knees when you're riding.

[Mr Eps]

[action] MR EPS "sighs" at user: Xalmon [/action]

the sarcasm is strong in this one.

[xALmoN]

Was it?

I didn't mean it that way.

And yes, finally my bike is ready to ride. But now i feel that a 26/17 ratio is a little too light.

Edited July 8, 2009 by xALmoN

[mad082]

where's your bell? $30 fine for not having a bell when riding on the road

true story

[xALmoN]

Seriously?

Anywhere i can check out the cycling laws in Victoria?

And helmet too? I need a helmet don't i?

[mad082]

yes, helmet fine is up around $100 now (well it is in qld). but vic roads should have most of the laws

[Xmetal]

where's your bell? $30 fine for not having a bell when riding on the road

true story

lol

Bell fines... I'd get raped if they caught up with me considering the BigHit has no reflectors, bells, lights, etc on it.

Been meaning to get a honka-hoota for racing though.

[Mr Eps]

haha my c-dale came without a bell - is that a paddlin on the bikeshop?

i removed my bell from my other bike on account of nobody gives a shit anyway if there's a pedestrian in your way there's about a 99% chance they're listening to the kings of leon on their ipod anyway and can't hear it