Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok, they don't do an anodized purple, only powder coat. they also only do sealed bearing but the velocity sealed bearing wheels roll pretty well. you are looking at RRP of around $450 (plus postage). price to you $350 plus postage. however i'm not sure how much postage will be or if it would even be possible to post as it is going to be very clost to the limit as far as size goes for posting through australia post. and sending it any other way will cost too much

saw some cool stuff at the apollo bike show. flat bar fixy for $700, road handlebar fixy for about $900. they are pretty retro (even have a retro style badge on them). i was talking to the owner of apollo about them and he said that they only sell because they are basically a fashion item (and he thinks they are a completely stupid idea). he said it's all the chappel st types that are buying them. anyone who actually wants to ride because they like riding and aren't a yuppy who will only buy something because it is the current fad will go flat bar. which kinds of explains why you have one rowan, LOL. you are like sau's resident bruno.

probably the coolest thing there was a road bike with top of the line SRAM red gears which have a computer built into the cranks that give you a readout of how many watts you are putting out. oh and it only weighs 7kg (complete bike). the bike is only $12500 for anyone looking at putting it on their christmas list i think they are also doing a version without those specific cranks which drops the price down to about $8000 or $9000. there was also their top of the line MTB which is running new sram XX gears. it is a 20 speed mtb gearset. so you have 2 at the front and 10 at the back. it also has the new remote hydraulic lockout forks. in the past all remote lockout forks have been cable operated. these new ones are hydraulic, making the action lighter and easier to do as it is just a button you push in. it is around $8000

the best thing there that is actually worth talking about though, is the new urban bikes. basically this comes into the market between hybrids and mtbs. hybrids were more aimed at the more mature rider. very comfortable seating positions, etc. urbans come are designed for people who want a mtb to ride on the road. basically people like jase. they have slightly wider, chunkier tyres than hybrids (so will go offroad a little bit more), slightly better suspension than a hybrid, but not as much travel as a mtb, and most of all, not so much of an upright frame. they are actually more like what you see some bicycle couriers use overseas (the ones who aren't too busy being 'individual' by following the trend of riding fixies. i will post up pics of them tomoro (will just be copied from the catalogue, which is out in the car and i'm too lazy to go get it, and i can't connect my phone to this computer anyway) but they look really cool. if it wasn't for the fact that i want to get another road bike, i would sell my mtb and get one as they just look cool and make more sense than a mtb with road tyres as they are lighter and better suited for road use than a mtb, but aren't as much of a pure road bike as a flat bar, and aren't as grampa as a hybrid. only slight let down was the price. they are a bit more than the equivilant mtb, but there are reasons for that which i couldn't be bothered going into (but it isn't just because they are aiming them at yuppies who they think will pay the money)

haahaaa marc very funny take the piss now that i hav a job with no nett and cant fight bak

in my defence im not a fixie rider AND NEVER WANT TO BE

im not a cafe strip dwelling shit head with no job who built a fixie with ebay parts. onliy toride it 3km a day toand from my studio apartment.

the difference between me and a fixy doucher are...

i kept mybrakes - they come handy

i hav dropbar- flat is useless in wind.

i wear a a HELMET. nota cid riding cap.

i use my bike tocommute ~45km aday. the capo is not like other made fixys. it weighs far less than most bikes ive felt. commuting on perths bike paths ive only been been beaten by a red specialized carbon road racer... but he was gnarly speed.... inshort im not a fixy rider n mybike isnt a fixy... its atrackbike with brakes on it and ts insanely fast!! and i love it

oh another difference is iknowa lot about bikes .. fixy fans seemto not know shit from clay

in further news the alias still gets used a lot... im going trails/xc riding every saturday itsgiven me a whole new appreciation for it... im still learning but the others push me hard to hammer the downhill s

ps jase for an mtb skinnyslick look at maxxis xennith.. they may look fat but contact patch is skinny so they do roll good... my only complaints are.. theres no side tread meaning no ?bite? wen u lean into corner so takes getting used to.. also thy very sticky like glue which giv gr8 traction but i qudstion their longevity ... but for how cheap they are just thrash for 3 or4 months and get a new set

ps spelling ,miastakesr cos typing wit ps3 remote like a loser

  • 2 weeks later...

so you have often heard people talk about chain stretch and thought nothing of it. generally once a chain hits 1% stretch it is time for a new one. here is one that was too stretched to measure (i put the indicator on it and put it to 1% and it had slop of about 1.5mm, LOL).

the chain on the left is a new chain. the longer chain on the right is the old chain. it has the same number of links as the new chain. i measures about 4cm longer. that is why if you ever need a new chain you don't measure the old one to see now long the new one needs to be, you go off the number of links.

dsc00759q.jpg

oh and i meant to add that by the time the chain got to being that stretched it also required new cassette and cranks because the chainrings were too worn to just put a new chain on and have it work. yet if they had put a new chain on ages ago they wouldn't have needed new cassette and cranks yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...