Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Missing Firing And Having Problems.. :(

azn_nick69

By azn_nick69,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

azn_nick69 Enthusiast

azn_nick69

Posted
Posted

hey guys...

i just brought a skyline and its a 32. dont know much about it.. just want to get some advices from some skylines experts..:)

My car has been running rich and miss firing. so i took it to the mechanic the other day for a compression test....the mechanic said it might be the coil packs, apprently the guy i brought it off done some pretty dodgy jobs on it..so yea.. well my friend had some spare R33 series 1 coil packs, so i chucked them on and brought a new coil harness as well... everything was fitted nicely and all but its still missing firing and when the car revs up to about 3000 revs it just doesnt boost anymore:( just wondering what other problems it could be..all i can think off it would be the spark plugs.. and if i change the spark plugs myself do i have to gap them.. from what i heard was when u changed the spark plugs u need special tools to change and gap them.. thats all..

thanks guys.. if you could give me some advies i will be much appreciated ay:)

cheers:) nick:)

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
hey guys...

i just brought a skyline and its a 32. dont know much about it.. just want to get some advices from some skylines experts..:)

My car has been running rich and miss firing. so i took it to the mechanic the other day for a compression test....the mechanic said it might be the coil packs, apprently the guy i brought it off done some pretty dodgy jobs on it..so yea.. well my friend had some spare R33 series 1 coil packs, so i chucked them on and brought a new coil harness as well... everything was fitted nicely and all but its still missing firing and when the car revs up to about 3000 revs it just doesnt boost anymore:( just wondering what other problems it could be..all i can think off it would be the spark plugs.. and if i change the spark plugs myself do i have to gap them.. from what i heard was when u changed the spark plugs u need special tools to change and gap them.. thats all..

thanks guys.. if you could give me some advies i will be much appreciated ay:)

cheers:) nick:)

Hey buddy, try changing your fuel filter and/or checking the flow rate of the fuel pump.

If you don't know how to do that, start with the fuel filter change and see if you get results from that. I would say 99.9% of skylines I see with a low rpm hesitation or missfire is caused by fuel system problems, coil packs usually don't give a missfire until 5000rpm or around abouts.

gazza750 Veteran

gazza750

Posted
Posted

revs to about 3000 ? if it was around 2800 or 2900 i would be thinking its going into limp mode

exactly what mine was doing (faulty AFM) so i ditched ecu and bought a vi-pec ecu so i dont need afm's anymore

cheaper option for you would be to try a afm off a mates car and see if that fixes it then you know to go and buy a new afm

White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

20's run 1.1mm gap standard. The reason people gap the plugs down is usually because of increased boost. A lot of people are running coppers gapped to .8mm. Personally I'm running the factory platinums gapped to 1.1mm at .85bar without any problems, but i do have splitfire coilpacks. It's best to run the biggest gap that you can.

White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

Can't edit post. But in relation to the topic it sounds like a fuel miss not a spark miss. Get a new fuel filter from Nissan P/No. # 16400-53J10 and check your fuel pressure with and without the vacuume line going to the fuel pressure regulator.

zero'sR32 Collaborator

zero'sR32

Posted
Posted

yeah def faulty air flow meter, i had the same problem,

if u got a friend with a r32 or r33 series 1 only, swap with him and see how it goes,

thats wat i did and found that was my problem

also, re-gap spark plugs to .8mm or so for increased boost,

i couldnt run more than 10psi with 1.1mm and found out regapping helped alot,

lol now im running 17psi on a 480hp turbo

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hexi
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Hexi · Posted

      Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • Duncan
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Duncan · Posted

      If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • tidi0x
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By tidi0x · Posted

      Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...