Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

There is a group buy going for the B&M line lock kits, and i was just wondering if any of the drag racers out there have installed them in a skyline. The reason im asking, is because a place i was going to buy one off ages ago said that i'd need two kits to make it work on a skyline. I dont really understand why, but it turned me off the purchase.

I just wanted to confirm whether this is correct, and ask where on the car have people installed the solenoid and cut the brake line.

Its kinda related to forced induction.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/
Share on other sites

only need one, also if your using it to lock on the front, or lock out the rear, you must reverse the flow path depending on what one you choose. If you locking out the rear install it in the reverse of the flow direction on the valve.

Edited by GTR1993
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4087895
Share on other sites

Yeah, mine has ABS.

I just got under the sar, and there is only one line going from the front to the rear, then it splits to each wheel via a distribution block.

Ill upload a pic of this block. Good to know.

Its a very small diameter line to flare though; i wonder how hard it is to install.

Shaun.

post-11456-1219562133_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shaun
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4088118
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Guys you don't put them right....

You must put this solenoid in your front brake line.

If at the brake master cyllinder there are 2 line for the front brakes you need two line locks if you have only one line you need one line lock.

The differense is if the car has or not abs but I don't remember which has two and which one!

You put the BRAKE pedal!!!!

You push the bottun!!!

Leave your brake pedal and forger it...!

Feel free to PLAY with your clutch and your throttle pedal only...!

When you finish the burning.... push again the botton...

AND.... GO!!!!

If you put them in the rear line you still need to push 3 pedals with two foots :wub::P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4105995
Share on other sites

Problem with that is what if you want to crab walk (aka crawl forward) while doing a burnout. Ide rather have to heel toe it and be able to do rolling burnouts than a boring stationary one

Ps. Installing one of these at the moment. Watch the fittings you put in to them cos they are american and require a special tapered fitting to seal properly. Got an adaptor from a brake parts store but not before I wasted time trying to make my own lines.

Edited by rinmak
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233090-line-lock-kits/#findComment-4106006
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
    • Wrinkle black will be a thing for both
    • As I wait for parts to be delivered, I have managed to procure via a contact a R32 Nistune ECU......for now I just want to monitor what the car is doing but eventually.......who knows where we go 😂
    • To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
×
×
  • Create New...