Jump to content
SAU Community

Can I Remove This Distribution Block Between The Master Cylinder And Slave Cylinder? - R32 Gtst

Shaun
 Share

Recommended Posts

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I just bled my clutch because im having disengagement problems, and was wondering if i can remove this distribution (?) block that is situated in line between the master and slave cylinders. Then i could just have a braided clutch line made up that runs from the master cylinder directly to the slave cylinder. Surely this would be better for pedal feel and be easier to bleed.

Also, i wouldnt mind knowing what its for before i remove it altogether. See the pic below; its the funny black box that has a bleed nipple on it and lines running into and out of it.

Also, does anyone know of people who would make a braided line that runs from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder?

Thanks,

Shaun

post-11456-1219579487_thumb.jpg

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

yeah you can do exactly that, and it does make bleeding much easier. UAS sell a straight braided replacement for a good price, we just put one in the car today.

here's a pic of it from another thread

no_booster.jpg

9krpm Mentor

9krpm

Posted
Posted

Isn't that block part of the clutch fluid cooler. Wouldn't removal of that block leads to overheating/boiling of the fluid?

Mine was removed when I purchased the car. I've been thinking of getting one to try and see if there is any benefit.

Shaun, don't bin that unit and make a donation by sending that unit to me :D?

sly32 Proficient

sly32

Posted
Posted

nar it wont cool anything, there isnt really a flow in the clutch system, if you want to blled the clutch well with the block, i found to bleed the clutch through the slave, and then go to the block bleed it from the block, and then back to the slave,

but

i would much rather 1 line haha, but i cant because my lines are rounding the bolts trying to get them off so im just leaving it.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

if you really want one I am pulling another one off next weekend. but unless you want to pick it up in syndey postage would be a killer

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Shaun....MAKE A DONATION (I really want it on a faster server right now :D )

Thanks for the reminder Duncan! +1 for faster server too.

UAS sell them for $120 which isnt too bad.

Now for another question. Is it a worthwhile upgrade to get the Nismo larger slave cylinder rather than a stock replacement one? I think the Nismo ones are about $80 or $90 extra.

Thanks again,

Shaun.

  • 5 weeks later...
ashr32 Rising Star

ashr32

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the reminder Duncan! +1 for faster server too.

UAS sell them for $120 which isnt too bad.

Now for another question. Is it a worthwhile upgrade to get the Nismo larger slave cylinder rather than a stock replacement one? I think the Nismo ones are about $80 or $90 extra.

Thanks again,

Shaun.

i got the UAS one and all i can say it AWESOME. bleeding the clutch 5 minutes (max) i did matster, slave and cable and im never looking back. the clutch feels great and alot heavyer

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I got a braided line made up from a brake and clutch place; they said it would be $60 but they forgot to charge me for it!

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

I've got a braided line that I've been meaning to fit but haven't yet. Was going to do it while my suspension is out being rebuilt in the next few weeks but does it really make the clutch a lot heavier? I was also looking into the Nismo slave to make it lighter as that's all it does that different to stock. Then I thought, I bet we can find a local slave the right size that will do the job. Any ideas? Gotta find the internal diameter of the stock and Nismo ones again. I had the measurements but I lost them.

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted
Isn't that block part of the clutch fluid cooler. Wouldn't removal of that block leads to overheating/boiling of the fluid?

Mine was removed when I purchased the car. I've been thinking of getting one to try and see if there is any benefit.

Shaun, don't bin that unit and make a donation by sending that unit to me :mellow:?

Yup, it's the cooler.

Bypassed mine, and two other Skylines with no adverse affect.

Bin it bro!

  • 2 weeks later...
sly32 Proficient

sly32

Posted
Posted

well im about to bin mine, tried every bloody adjustment and 3 bottles of clutch fluid later i still cant dis-engage so i cant even get the car into gear,

apparently when you get a heavy pressure plate etc.... theres a point where you rubber hose to the slave will just exspand instead of pushing the slave out because of the pressure which is needed,

so my APP 1 piece braided line arrived today, will put it in tomorrow and i hope my clutch works, otherwise i will be cut,

(that box thing was the dumbest design ever)

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted
well im about to bin mine, tried every bloody adjustment and 3 bottles of clutch fluid later i still cant dis-engage so i cant even get the car into gear,

apparently when you get a heavy pressure plate etc.... theres a point where you rubber hose to the slave will just exspand instead of pushing the slave out because of the pressure which is needed,

so my APP 1 piece braided line arrived today, will put it in tomorrow and i hope my clutch works, otherwise i will be cut,

(that box thing was the dumbest design ever)

Don't forget to bleed the master first, then the slave. Otherwise you'll be bashing your teddy man. I learned the hard way......

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted
Pretty sure its not a cooler, it wouldnt work, and the clutch fluid has no reason to get hot

Yeah man it is a cooler. The workshop manual even states it.

The reason the fluid gets hot is because of compression. If you pump the pedal enough it will heat the line.

They're not use on brake lines because they run the length of the vehicle and the underbody draught cools the lines.

Anything under compression develops heat - A case in point: Turbos.

  • 4 weeks later...
PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted
I've got a braided line that I've been meaning to fit but haven't yet. Was going to do it while my suspension is out being rebuilt in the next few weeks but does it really make the clutch a lot heavier? I was also looking into the Nismo slave to make it lighter as that's all it does that different to stock. Then I thought, I bet we can find a local slave the right size that will do the job. Any ideas? Gotta find the internal diameter of the stock and Nismo ones again. I had the measurements but I lost them.

How did you go with this?

I am in the same boat, except ive lost my slave cylinder in moving sheds. So I can't even take my old one is for a sample.

Apparently the difference between Std and nismo is 19.05mm vs 20.54mm, with the current exchange rate its pricing them upwards of $200. And im sure a PBR or Powermax wouldn't be more than $60.

Infact I reckon a Patrol one would do the job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...