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From the pic it looks like an aftermarket item with the adapter welded on. jus need to find something to cover it. maybe weld a plate over it? for testing maybe a rubber cover and zip tie it on just to see. and just eliminate the vacuum hose running to the aftermarket item (a bolt in the end will do for testing)

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OK so i decided to remove my aftermarket bov and yeh after removing it i had to block the flange with somthing, so i fabricated a little covering etc.

I also soldered the afm as suggested.

heres some pics :)

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Ok so i was heaps excited, like awsome this is sure gonna fix my problem, so i took her for a spin and for some reason she booted, YES i could feel the turbo pull again.. but yeh soon enough she died randomly again... so the outcome was pretty good, by reomoving my aftermarket bov which i had no need for gave me abit more power :) which makes no sense, however knowing that the bov is now fine that pretty much leaves the afm as the problem... im guessing mine is pretty much dead... so yeh tonight ill try source a Z32 afm (gonna send me broke) and then install it and reset my ecu...

AND HOPEFULLY thats the end of my saga...

to be continued ?

Hey guys i've taken my afm's out and have just gone over the solder joints to make sure the connections are good. I have 1 questions though. How do i clean the afm's though. do i just spray some brake cleaner or carby cleaner inside the afm's or where?? Just straight through the mesh covering???

Cheers,

Johnny

yeh thats what i pretty much did, just sprayed it in the direction of the flow, but i dont think it really matters, sigh this problem is bugging me, i just orded some new iridium spark plugs, if that fails.. then im all out of ideas..

Well no luck for me. Started the car after resoldering and cleaning afms' and all i got was spluterring and a nice smell of unburnt fuel out the exhaust. Looks like it could be something else or a completley stuffed afm.

The other day i found someone selling their stock afm, looked in bad condition, but the guy said it was in perfect working order, so i asked to try it and when i plugged it up and tried to start my car, it wouldnt start at all i then started the car with no afm and then plugged in the same afm and my car just died. So pretty much that afm was screwed, i also noticed it had the nissan logo on it and mine didnt so that means, mines an aftermarket one.. and looks pretty much new, when i opened it up to be resoldered the joins where perfect and had no dry bits or anything.

So in conclusion must be my sparks or coils what else could it possibly be?

Yeah next weekend i'm going to be trying my old coils which were still working and spark plugs which i know were still working. Failing that i'm stumped. I guess it's mechanic time.

I can't see it being the coils though because they were brand new less than 500kms ago. Might be my spark plugs because I bought 1.1mm gapped ones and had to gap further according to my gapping tool which i had bought. Maybe the gapping tool was dodgey(i did get the cheapest possible). Therfore it 'could' be the spark plugs. These ones are probably stuffed now anyway because it's been running so rich and passing fuel through.

changed my coils and spark plugs. The spark plugs were completley stuff but thats probably because all of the over fueling and crap that built up on it while i was trying to fix it most probably.

Well the car idles fine. It's only when it hits 2500rpm that it just starts missfiring. This is an afm problem isn't it???

Dam that sucks... i just got my new iridium sparkies in today, orded it online awsome price like 6 bucks each! anyway i changed over my plugs and araldited my coils with abit of elect heat tape over it. after it was done i reseted my ecu and took her for a spin.. OMG!!! the first couple minutes wer insane! lol i felt my car come back to life... was the best feeling lol, felt like a brand new car.. but after abit she died..

sigh now im stumped iono what to do.. needa find a good mechanic i trust.. and charges fair.

btw try out this link with ur missfire problem:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...500-t32356.html

theres alot of reasons why skylines missfire, they run rich etc but the main cause i think is the coil packs, give it a go.

ill update on what was the problem after i find out what it is :cool:

Do you have an SAFC ot other piggy back device?

I had a similar problem that turned out to be a problem with the wiring at the ECU plug. (possibly caused when they put in the SAFC)

It was easy to diagnose the loose ECU conection, just remove the pasengers kick plate, start the car and then wriggle/pull on the plug and individual wires near the ECU. (you dont need to be rough, the bad connection faults under driving vibration so no real force needed). If the car splutters or cuts out you have confirmed the problem, then just repeat until you find the correct wire (you can also pull the plug off and spray the whole lot with electrical cleaner and reconnect after it dries out)

Hope this helps.

PS Coopers Draught LOL

THANK GOD! someone who has the same problem. Somedays shes ok and some shes just decides to randomly die on me, its starting to get dangerous, as im entering into a corner shell just dust die, and the steering wheel will lock up, i then have to clutch down and turn over the ignition.

I'm pretty sure its an electrical problem, i dont think it could be my sparks because then my revs would be acting abnormal.

Theres no signs of it going to die or anything, it just happens randomly while driving normaly, everything is pretty much smooth then out of no where shell just die and roll along.

My car is an R33 GTSt series 1, and is pretty much stock, the only mods that im aware of are a bov and a pod filter.

I thought the culprit was a dirty afm, so i decided to clean it the other day with some electrical cleaner. But the problem still occurs. I was thinking, if it was my afm then i probally couldnt go above 2.5k rpm because its dead, however lately i cant feel the turbo pull as much either that or im just too use to the feeling. Ill check the sparks tommorow to see if there fouled, i just hope its not my coils.

Please reply and update on the problem id love to know what the solution is before i start replacing parts that dont need to be.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...-s-t113284.html

I also came across the above post which i think i might try, if the problem is my afm i mean it wont hurt to give it a go, because ill have to end up replacing it anyway.

edit - i also just remembered that when i step on the acelerator to about 5k shell die after so it could be the afm after all.

Hey guys, exact problems happening with me. Been happening for about 2 and a half months now. exact same symptoms, wont rev with accelerator down over 2500rpm , idles very high about 2000rpm, randomly cuts out anywhere at any random time (very dangerous, happens to me on the motorway alot and corners).

What Helps it for me: I always warm the car up at least 3 minutes before I go anywhere now as If i drive straight away (even off boost) it still plays up (especially going up hills and when boost kicks in). I find that when it does happen (idle at 2000rpm) that if i pull over and wait 3-5 mins then the revs slowly fall.

Seen a mechanic and read alot on these forums but still cant confirm symptoms. originally I thought it had something to do with the fuel so cleaned all the lines, pump, reg new filter etc...no change. alot of people keep giving me the same answer though, coils , fuel, afm or plugs???? Anoyone out there know cause this its a real pain in the ass.

If it won't rev over 2500rpm then its usually afm. That fixed my problem. The problem was a bit masked though because my plugs were gone to shit because of all the spluttering and then it started to idle roughly.

Hi guys, a newbie here. i have been reading this thread and wondering.

i got 32gtr as well. never have a problem with it. idle very well every time.

but once or twice when i am revving it: when engine is cold, the rpm sort of drop a little and then goes up normally. after engine reaches normal operating temperature it still does the same, but just drop less.

it doesn't happen much. 95% of the time that doesn't happen (touch wood! :) )

but when it does, it just makes me worried a little. could it be of a similar problem? sorry very simple question :(

cheers.

My afms were the problem. I got a second hand set and it runs fine now. I'll probably put my 'old' new coils back in and get some new spark plugs on the weekend.

thats awsome ! lol yay ur problem is fixed now.. yeh maybe i should try source some new afms hey... i also started another topic in the SA forums...

they got alot of input and adivice..

wow seems like alot of ppl have this problem, and aslo if ur cars babies under 2.5k rpm its probarly ur afm.. try source out one froma mate and try it..

heres the link.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fr...er-t238568.html

You know you can test your AFM's with a volt meter :O

Cranking = 1v

Idle = 1.1v

2500rpm = 2v

Full load will be 4.5 - 5v

hey do you think you could get some pics up? theres 4 spades... which is +, - etc?

and also what reading am i aiming for?

  • 3 weeks later...
Hey guys, exact problems happening with me. Been happening for about 2 and a half months now. exact same symptoms, wont rev with accelerator down over 2500rpm , idles very high about 2000rpm, randomly cuts out anywhere at any random time (very dangerous, happens to me on the motorway alot and corners).

What Helps it for me: I always warm the car up at least 3 minutes before I go anywhere now as If i drive straight away (even off boost) it still plays up (especially going up hills and when boost kicks in). I find that when it does happen (idle at 2000rpm) that if i pull over and wait 3-5 mins then the revs slowly fall.

Seen a mechanic and read alot on these forums but still cant confirm symptoms. originally I thought it had something to do with the fuel so cleaned all the lines, pump, reg new filter etc...no change. alot of people keep giving me the same answer though, coils , fuel, afm or plugs???? Anoyone out there know cause this its a real pain in the ass.

i got the same problem as well. the rev just drop on idle when i pull over and hesitating while driving and will stall if its on free gear, very dangerous. Earlier the mechanic told me it was my afm, so i changed them to an r34 stock afm, was working fine 4 about a week till the same problem occurred yesterday. now im thinking it got to be the fuel pump or the ecu or maybe the afm again. another issue is that i dont feel much power on full throttle so again im not sure whether its the fuel pump. anyway, i was thinking whether to get a pwer fc d-jetro which remove the afm and hopefully fix the problem. if anyone have any thoughts or experience on the ecu, pls let me knw. cheers.

josh

  • 2 weeks later...

did any1 find the solution to this yet? i experience the same thing. it always happens when i slow down. the rpm falls below 1000 and then you get the battery light pop up and then the car stalls. this however is not always the case. sometimes the rpm picks up and the car drives fine.. any1 else notice this?

did any1 find the solution to this yet? i experience the same thing. it always happens when i slow down. the rpm falls below 1000 and then you get the battery light pop up and then the car stalls. this however is not always the case. sometimes the rpm picks up and the car drives fine.. any1 else notice this?

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