Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Only get the Kaiwami's if going 19x9.5+15 and 10.5+12

And if you do go through Streeter

Alright for entry level works at about 1800 for the set

^^^ agree with Locky - absolutely perfect offset .... and yes, Jesse is by far the cheapesst (and most reliable) guy around Jp.

I have 18" 9.5" +12 fronts and 10.5" +15 rears, sits pretty much dead flush, not perfect flush but close to it. I really don't think $1800 are for 19", more like 18". But yeah great wheels, get the bronze colour or you could wait for whenever damn Enkei releases their RS05RR, that looks the shit! :)

  • 4 weeks later...

Yep, basically anyone who lowers their V35 eventually pulls out the lowered springs and puts in higher ones - I even pulled off my front lip as well, I was so jacked off at scraping it on EVERYTHING! And I busted my exhaust a number of times before modifying it to sit higher. #v35firstworldproblems :)

Just crazy having to deal with driveways , speed humps , potholes etc - just for the sake of the car looking good and handling slightly sharper. The V's even in standard trim touch in certain places where my older and lower R33 didn't. I certainly ain't messing with it

Amen to that.. i'm only lowered 1.1'' front and rear and i need to take crazy angles on most driveways to get up without scraping. Also jacking the car up is a pain, need to roll the car onto bits of wood for the stand to even fit under. Anyone know of a super low hydraulic jack or even if they exist?

Ive got a lowish profile alloy jack, it can just get under the sils but cant clear the exhaust or the cross member.... Just drive it up on wood as then it gives you plenty of room to swing the arm and not take 20 min to just get it started.

Not sure how much lower than stock mine is as It came with the coils wound all the awy up, this is max low, with the lock ring taken out of the rear. Tucking a little tread all round, but with how low this car hangs I think I would get beached on any more than a small speedbump..... Better than bags though

The concerning thing with this through is that it scrapes chassis/crossmember. Not just exhaust like a lot of earlier nissans

20130411_134446_zps2fdc84da.jpg

with mismatch, but kinda shows lack of clearance

IMG_5529_zps6e4bae4d.jpg

I think it's also got to do with the really long wheel base on these things. It means even when you angle you're not going to make much difference by the time the opposite rear wheel climbs the incline.

The US guys ride them this low all the time, and only damage seems to be exhausts (replace flanges with V-bands for some extra clearance) and rear subframe bolts getting ground down (cut off, replace, meh). I do worry about the fuel tank tho, as that seems to scrape when angling up gutters sometimes (sits in front of the passenger wheel?) and I reckon a metal undertray for the front would be a wise investment.....

I looked at cup kits for a while and then decided that spending another 4k on suspension just to overcome the shortfalls of the design was crazy - so i'm just gonna buy a daily and save the skyline for the occasions where i can be bothere setting up all the ramps to get it out of the driveway lol.

Bags are the answer, and what I am going to fit to my V36 when I get one. The best of both worlds. Let's face it - we don't want (or need) to be slammed all the time. But when you do, you do. So I would run it nice and high for daily duties, slam it for the weekends, and super slam it once it is sitting in place at car shows :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...