Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Only get the Kaiwami's if going 19x9.5+15 and 10.5+12

And if you do go through Streeter

Alright for entry level works at about 1800 for the set

^^^ agree with Locky - absolutely perfect offset .... and yes, Jesse is by far the cheapesst (and most reliable) guy around Jp.

I have 18" 9.5" +12 fronts and 10.5" +15 rears, sits pretty much dead flush, not perfect flush but close to it. I really don't think $1800 are for 19", more like 18". But yeah great wheels, get the bronze colour or you could wait for whenever damn Enkei releases their RS05RR, that looks the shit! :)

  • 4 weeks later...

Yep, basically anyone who lowers their V35 eventually pulls out the lowered springs and puts in higher ones - I even pulled off my front lip as well, I was so jacked off at scraping it on EVERYTHING! And I busted my exhaust a number of times before modifying it to sit higher. #v35firstworldproblems :)

Just crazy having to deal with driveways , speed humps , potholes etc - just for the sake of the car looking good and handling slightly sharper. The V's even in standard trim touch in certain places where my older and lower R33 didn't. I certainly ain't messing with it

Amen to that.. i'm only lowered 1.1'' front and rear and i need to take crazy angles on most driveways to get up without scraping. Also jacking the car up is a pain, need to roll the car onto bits of wood for the stand to even fit under. Anyone know of a super low hydraulic jack or even if they exist?

Ive got a lowish profile alloy jack, it can just get under the sils but cant clear the exhaust or the cross member.... Just drive it up on wood as then it gives you plenty of room to swing the arm and not take 20 min to just get it started.

Not sure how much lower than stock mine is as It came with the coils wound all the awy up, this is max low, with the lock ring taken out of the rear. Tucking a little tread all round, but with how low this car hangs I think I would get beached on any more than a small speedbump..... Better than bags though

The concerning thing with this through is that it scrapes chassis/crossmember. Not just exhaust like a lot of earlier nissans

20130411_134446_zps2fdc84da.jpg

with mismatch, but kinda shows lack of clearance

IMG_5529_zps6e4bae4d.jpg

I think it's also got to do with the really long wheel base on these things. It means even when you angle you're not going to make much difference by the time the opposite rear wheel climbs the incline.

The US guys ride them this low all the time, and only damage seems to be exhausts (replace flanges with V-bands for some extra clearance) and rear subframe bolts getting ground down (cut off, replace, meh). I do worry about the fuel tank tho, as that seems to scrape when angling up gutters sometimes (sits in front of the passenger wheel?) and I reckon a metal undertray for the front would be a wise investment.....

I looked at cup kits for a while and then decided that spending another 4k on suspension just to overcome the shortfalls of the design was crazy - so i'm just gonna buy a daily and save the skyline for the occasions where i can be bothere setting up all the ramps to get it out of the driveway lol.

Bags are the answer, and what I am going to fit to my V36 when I get one. The best of both worlds. Let's face it - we don't want (or need) to be slammed all the time. But when you do, you do. So I would run it nice and high for daily duties, slam it for the weekends, and super slam it once it is sitting in place at car shows :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...