Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just letting you all know that in order to prevent "slip ups" with behavior, I will be making a registry of all vehicles attending (Make, model, No. plate, etc.) We DO NOT want any negative type of attention as this goes against everything that the club stands for.

We are car enthusiasts out for a night of pizza and conversation and not to have mini races on the way there.. or to see how much rubber we can burn.

You are now aware, fun will be had, but on the right side of the law.

Thank you all in advance.

i think ill make this my first SAU cruise, so count me in.

Quick question, if i was to buy a CB , what should i be looking for, Brands? Functions? etc.

well ultimately you'd want one that can receive and transmit...

look for above 1W if you want anyone else to hear you outher than your passenger...

um.. don't pay more than $100

Ebay is the best place to get it, IMO

i think ill make this my first SAU cruise, so count me in.

Quick question, if i was to buy a CB , what should i be looking for, Brands? Functions? etc.

Jaycar sell CBs and such, if I was buying a cheap one that's where I'd go. :P

For my 21st my parents gave me a Icom IC-41S. It is 5W and has more functions I can poke multiple sticks at, but I use it for work, when I go camping and on cruises... it gets a fair work out. Retails at $399 (which I only just found out, I'm really not worth that much lol) and is apparently very popular in mines and industrial applications. It's also made in Japan, always a plus :P. Realistically, this is very much overkill for what I need, but it does the job and will last ages, especially since it has a metal shell under the plastic to protect it from any would be epic dropage from great hights/speeds.

(good thing my plates are random and hard to remember... and my car is a sleeper... burnouts here i come!)

hahahaha i hope thats a joke steve, plates dont stand out, massive black wing doesnt stand out on a white car, awesome backfire when you are shifting down..... (still inlove with your car, can i touch her exhaust holes????? or mabey her head lights???)

i think ill make this my first SAU cruise, so count me in.

Quick question, if i was to buy a CB , what should i be looking for, Brands? Functions? etc.

nah i got a couple of unidens for christmas as a kid for me and my brother to be idiots with in the bush, they meant to be 0.5watts and rated for 3km distance but we can talk to each other from castle hill to north parramatta (both on hills) and straight line distance would be atleast 8 km's, but this was in the days that things wrent made in china and uniden is a pretty good brand,,, im sure they pretty cheap now, like $50 or something..... cb's are good though, when driving and my gf is following me and someone is being a dickhead to her she radios me and i cause them trouble lol....

also im not sure if its correct but there are a few repeater stations around sydney and the can amplify your message (well thats what i understand) so in the past i have spoken to people in bankstown when im in castle hill, not reliable but does happen

depends on your budget and how often you use it....

SATANIC n crew are now out due to technical issues... video documenting reason will be uploaded on Youtube tomorrow. Minor set back only, but nonetheless one that keeps us away from this event.

S




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...