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Don't forget the cams approved fire extinguisher.

btw, how important is the blue triangle for the battery location? I'm going to use some blue pressure tape.

If anyone has a timer marker, tell me what brand to get so I can buy another of the same.

I'm really looking forward to seeing you all there on the 19th.

so i went out there today and wow was it packed with plenty of hot high performance cars! just a bit too busy for my liking but all good. i will go another time...i like sundays when there are only around 4-8 people...

plenty of cool cars to look at though!

didnt see any skylines though....

I rocked up at 12:00 noon and only saw the photographers driving skylines, must have missed you guys as I went onto the track. Still the super drift practice was worth watching. 24 cars on the track at a time. In 10 minutes drifting they shred a set of brand new tyres, approx 8 tyres in a day.

evil_weevil - It wasn't hot enough to need air conditioning.

you should have seen me then... it was around that point i was getting towed out in the middle.

i went home to weld new intercooler pipes and the black gtr had had his fun too. We were a bit out of our league with the calibra that was there, but the 928 and rx7's were about right if not a bit slow. i was just totting around wasting money not pushing hard enough. only got about 10 laps.

hung out with the open wheeler guys all day, they are some great machines and people. We need to NOT be the only two street cars next time lol. was fun anyway i love driving



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    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
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