Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This isn't in anticipation of the dyno day is it???

:bahaha:

Boosters are shit, they only raise 0.1 of a octane point.

There's really one foolproof way and that's 10% or more toluene.

That gives real full points octane boostage. But I wonder if it's worth it. It certain is in track situations.

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-501526
Share on other sites

my experience was quite crap dude....

filled up with mobil synergy 8000 and a bottle of octane booster a couple of nights before my maiden EC off street drags with the wrx.

car started misfiring and it couldnt shake it till after EC...misfired all the way down the quarter but still ran a 13.5s...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-501808
Share on other sites

I used octane booster for racing type affairs when my tune wasn't the best. Obviously only an advantage when using the best fuel available to you. On another note, also very handy for country trips where there is only shitty regular fuel available.

I have used the Nulon Pro-Strength as I was stuck with regular in country NSW and it worked a treat.

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-502148
Share on other sites

I use the Nulon stuff as well. Your car has to be tuned for it to be effective so you can't just chuck it in and expect it to work. Everyone that tells you their car ran rough when they tried it is finding this out.

More people say it doesn't work and some say it slowly wrecks your internals but no one has so far backed it up with evidence as far as I've seen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-502731
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Blitz

Does some interesting things to spark plugs - as far as I know you can use you as long as your engine is running hot enough to burn it up. Anyone care to clarify?

This may seem like a controversial statement:

"You should run your car on the lowest octane fuel it is designed for."

But if you look into what happens during combustion it becomes a bit clearer. For the best performance (be it economy or power) there needs to be a controlled burning of the fuel air mixture. This is dependant on pressure, mixture, fuel, temp., ignition and whatever else.

By raising the octane rating of the fuel it will resist detonation (where the fuel/air mix explodes rather than burns), i.e. the infamous "detonation" or "pinging". Put simply, the higher the compression ratio (or boost) then the higher the octane rating required for the fuel.

Now, if you are running 98 octane in your engine that is designed to run on 91 then all the fuel is not being burnt during combustion as the temperatures and pressures are not high enough. Therefore a reduction in performance will be the result.

If your engine has a knock sensor fitted then it will automatically adjust the timing to suit whatever fuel is going through the pipes for the required performance. That's about it as far as my technical knowledge goes.

Now someone please correct me if I'm wrong:

The knock sensor is also called a lambda sensor and measures the unburnt oxygen via the oxygen sensor, right? If the system is a closed loop system then it can adjust the timing to suit the fuel used.

The RB25DET (stock ECU) does not have this as you have to tune it for the fuel being used , right?

Any corrections appreciated. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-504126
Share on other sites

Avgas will coat your O2 sensors as well as block up your cat convertor! I Always run Optimax or Ultimate with Wynns race formula or Nulon prostrength when iwind the boost up on the Sx as insurance against pinging. I would have thought that ALL Jap imports would benefit greatly from 98 fuel & a good octane booster as there tuning is designed for 100. My Mates 300zx improved considerably from 98 & NF blackoctane booster as he could put another couple of degrees timing into it. He Run 13.2 then with timing dropped to 12.8.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23444-octane-booster/#findComment-504292
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...