Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by eryc

how easy was it to swap over to gtst lsd

did it just bolt on or did you have to modify

thanks eryc

bolted straight up to my type s... no mods required

from memory there is about 3 axle stud patterns.

there is a yellow/orange "L.S.D." sticker on the top passenger side of the diff housing. above the axles.

hard to see from under car. could try with a small mirror.

cheers

lsd's work to a point the allow a certain amount of slip, hence the name "limited slip", if u have one on grass and one on tar the one on the tar is still moving ur car but the on the grass is moving slightly faster, not sure how the skyline diff works but in commonwhores the amount of slip is controlled by springs kinda like a clutch, tuffer springs equals much less slip and the other way around as well.

wait...

i dont have a jack that can jack it up...i jacked up one side..and turned the wheel...and it mananged to turn, does that mean no lsd?

on a 7k and then clutch dump, the car is moving, and im drivin, how do i even know if one wheel spins and the other doesnt?

and WHY would one wheel spin and the other not?

thanks guys...ne way of just lookin under and knowin if u have an LSD?

dont know what that flange flange thing is either..

hehhh

pardon my ignorance...:P

get under the back of ur car and count the bolts man, it seems LSD came with 5 bolt flange and non LSD 6 bolt flange, which means axle setup and everything is different. With an open diff u get slipage hence u get one wheel spinning cos the other gear isnot moving. in and LSD it transfers the torque evenly, u shouldnt really get wheel spin unless there is too much torque. Or sumthing like that correct me if im wrong!

the diff is dead center between the rear wheels ok, well call it a metal ball, a flange is like a bolt holder cos u cant have two pipes just joined together with bolts so its the flat end piece that holds the diff to the axles. The bolts are on either side of the diff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...