Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking at buying a 1996 R-33 automatic, Turbo. Was wondering whats the fuel consumption of these cars? The owner said 10l/ 100 km. Im a newbie at skylines and cars in general and please dont start stoning me cause its automatic, I know manual is better but for me this car will suffice.

Edited by LightninG
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235557-r-33-auto-turbo-petrol-consumption/
Share on other sites

I believe its stock, just has turbo.

Also would getting rid of the turbo be a good idea since im on my provisional licence and I can't drive turbo charged vehicles. How would that affect the car? I was thinking of just driving it with turbo and hoping not to be stopped by police.

Edited by LightninG

hey mate,

i have a 96' r33 turbo thats auto for sale. depending on how i drive i can get 400kms or a bit more out of a full tank. its on carsales if u wanna have a look, my rego is BLKAZN, trust me u wont be dissapointed. shes imaculate. u can quite easly get away with driving her with out getting pulled over, shes a sleeper. we can work something out if ur interested in buying her. hope to hear from ya...

has no one mentioned that you cannot even register it as the transport in ur state won't let a turbo car be registered in ur name..

and it's not just a matter of taking the turbo off.. just get a shit box or get a non turbo if u insist on a skyline until ur opens.. if u can avoid rbt.. random pull overs.. speeding.. cranky cops.. for ur 'P' period i'd consider you lucky

400km out of a tank with a catback and pod. not being very gentle with her either.

dont buy the turbo if you are under the new scheme. you will get reamed. and its not a simple thing to just take the turbo off either. an RB25DET (turbo engine) will be slower and more sluggish without a turbo than an RB25DE (nonturbo engine). get a non turbo r34 sedan or something. very good cars for a similar price. upgrade to a turbo later. by the time u get off your p's, a lot of cars woulda dropped in price too which is a bonus

Thnx for responses. I am not sure what Im gonna do. The car that I found is very cheap for the condition that its in. 10 000 very well looked after, 96 R -33 turbo auto. I can probably go for my manual licence and then look for a manual R-33 non turbo, but I dont know if Ill be able to find one for around 10k in good condition.

And yea, I just asked what the penalties are for being caught driving a turbo on provisional licence: 3 points and $220. Definitely not worth it.

One last question; If I do take out the turbo and put it back in 2 years time when I have my open licence, would it still be the same performance, like would the actual taking the turbo out then putting it back reduce performance?

Also how much would it cost to take out the turbo?

I love metaphors so-

pretend the skyline turbo/you are/is a level 99 magician. By taking the turbo off you then reduce it/you a level 9 peasant with spells disabled and no artifacts. Now you are still are a magician at heart and the policing force of Nurcramancers will be able to detect your level 99 magician skills but sadly they do not know nor care your a level 9 peasant and will destroy you with a 90 attack point spell (most likely lighting or something similar). In the end you and your car will have a horrible death.

TRANSLATION: Your car will still be registered as a turbo and the PO-PO will see this and kick you in the dick. They won't care if you have taken the turbo off or not. I doubt you'll even be able to register it in your name. Now, even if you were to avaid the police in a level 99 magic.... I mean turbo skyline the cost of getting someone to take a turbo off a turbo engine and getting it to run right would scare you and be very pointless when shown the direct comparison of just buying a non-turbo skyline. If you can't find a manual no-turbo r33 for under $10,000 you need to look harder.

Hope this helps without scaring you too much.

Edited by gunmetalgrey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...