Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Saturday Afternoon sprints are a good place to start. Its for road cars only and they'll group you in with other new drivers for your first event so there's no pressure. Has plenty of run-off too. Should find all you need to know here:

http://www.qldraceways.com.au/events/Satur...arvo_index.html

Or Google Rennen Motorsport - they have some driver training days at QR I believe. That would be a great way to get started and learn heaps about track driving.

Saturday Afternoon sprints are a good place to start. Its for road cars only and they'll group you in with other new drivers for your first event so there's no pressure. Has plenty of run-off too. Should find all you need to know here:

http://www.qldraceways.com.au/events/Satur...arvo_index.html

Or Google Rennen Motorsport - they have some driver training days at QR I believe. That would be a great way to get started and learn heaps about track driving.

oh good info

thanks heaps! im sure to check that out .......... does any one here go there? would be good to meet some fellow owners.

p.s do you own a 30?

www.timeattack.com.au

have a day this friday, they do beginner sessions also and you have much much more track time and space than the QR Saturday sprints...

Edited by wrxkilla

www.timeattack.com.au

have a day this friday, they do beginner sessions also and you have much much more track time and space than the QR Saturday sprints...

great responses!

well now i have a few choices:)

i cant wait to get back from holidays and have a run!

any set up tips for a mild run?

With the brake fluid consider something like Motul RBF 600 brake fluid (dot 4.1 but high boiling point), can be bought from bike shops for about $15/bottle (roughly)

Oh, track days often have a driver training session available that you can do...

With the brake fluid consider something like Motul RBF 600 brake fluid (dot 4.1 but high boiling point), can be bought from bike shops for about $15/bottle (roughly)

Oh, track days often have a driver training session available that you can do...

will i be able to use that dot 4.1 / 5 on the street?

cheers for all the helpfull tips so far fellas

yeah nothing wrong with using good fluid on the street, its not like race pads which don't work properly when cold.

the only thing to watch with high quality fluid is it absorbs moisture quicker, so you should change it every 12 months. But that really goes for all brake fluid anyway

yeah nothing wrong with using good fluid on the street, its not like race pads which don't work properly when cold.

the only thing to watch with high quality fluid is it absorbs moisture quicker, so you should change it every 12 months. But that really goes for all brake fluid anyway

cool ill get onto that then....

I have the discs that have the holes drilled into them on ive been told they are standard on my model 1990/1 gtr they are slow to warm up i have found :)

what pads will be a good trade off for mild street and a little bit of track?........

Ive just run a track day at waneroo here in perth in my gtr using Project Mu HC+ pads front and rear and they were awsome, work well on the street to. I did up to 7 fast laps at a time and no issues and a pro race car driver drove my car for 4 hot laps and no issues there either. Not the cheapest but well worth it

Ive just run a track day at waneroo here in perth in my gtr using Project Mu HC+ pads front and rear and they were awsome, work well on the street to. I did up to 7 fast laps at a time and no issues and a pro race car driver drove my car for 4 hot laps and no issues there either. Not the cheapest but well worth it

where can they be bought from mate?

JAson, PM Giant, he might be able to help you with MU pads. What kinda Skline you got, and how much power?

Also, Lakeside is on this Sunday, maybe you'd like to come join us out there for the last run before it's closed for renovations?

Edit: just saw you have a 32 GTR. Those original (assuming?) cross drilled rotors won't last long at a track day, you might be better served investing up front in a set of DBA 2500 rotors and pads of your choice, assuming it's not overly powerful, because then you'll really need to upgrade the whole shootin match.

Edited by Marlin
JAson, PM Giant, he might be able to help you with MU pads. What kinda Skline you got, and how much power?

Also, Lakeside is on this Sunday, maybe you'd like to come join us out there for the last run before it's closed for renovations?

Edit: just saw you have a 32 GTR. Those original (assuming?) cross drilled rotors won't last long at a track day, you might be better served investing up front in a set of DBA 2500 rotors and pads of your choice, assuming it's not overly powerful, because then you'll really need to upgrade the whole shootin match.

Hey there,

Thanks for the info Im sorry that i wont be able to make it to lakeside since im off to sydney for 2 weeks to see the family this friday

although i would like to meet up and have a chat with you chaps when i get back .

Its a 1990 32gtr

The engine and the whole car is stock and the only mod is the gear knob :happy:

Ill be getting a new set of discs asap DBA seem to be the go huh.

Ill be going for some coil over as well in a month im thinking some teins.

and a full ex system.

and that will be it for the time being...............unless i need some kind of special tyres? i currently have yokohama C drives?

they came with the car.......

again great input guys!

Edited by DAS KAMU

No sweat mate. QR is a bit "safer" anyway.

DBA are far from the best available, but are a reasonable rotor for your car's current level. Don't get cross drilled, just slotted ones. A cheap pad for your car's level is Bendix Ultimate. Some guys hate them, I've had them though and they're fine for what you need.

It would be prudent to start looking for some 2nd hand GTR Brembos as a minimum, brakes are something you can't really overdo.

Have a good talk to people before spending money on Japanese spec coil overs. The Tein's Fulcrum do are good for a daily driver with some sport use, but Jap spec ones are appalling.

Tyres, if you're having a punt, road tyres get chewed fairly quickly, I'd suggest just enjoy your first outing on your roadies, and maybe invest in a second set of wheels/tyres specifically for the track if you really enjoy it. I don't know what a C Drive is..... I'm not that good with computers :rofl:

No sweat mate. QR is a bit "safer" anyway.

DBA are far from the best available, but are a reasonable rotor for your car's current level. Don't get cross drilled, just slotted ones. A cheap pad for your car's level is Bendix Ultimate. Some guys hate them, I've had them though and they're fine for what you need.

It would be prudent to start looking for some 2nd hand GTR Brembos as a minimum, brakes are something you can't really overdo.

Have a good talk to people before spending money on Japanese spec coil overs. The Tein's Fulcrum do are good for a daily driver with some sport use, but Jap spec ones are appalling.

Tyres, if you're having a punt, road tyres get chewed fairly quickly, I'd suggest just enjoy your first outing on your roadies, and maybe invest in a second set of wheels/tyres specifically for the track if you really enjoy it. I don't know what a C Drive is..... I'm not that good with computers :P

Ok awesome well i was thinking street spec teins? i see some good value and quality

A Lot of people like JIC's which of the 2 would you recommend?

2nd set of rims is a good idea with semi slicks

again thanks for giving your time to answer my constant questions

and i am searching the forums also - that tourqe adjusting thing that sends more power to the front looks usefull.

THANKS!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...