Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I'm new to this forum. I have just bought an R32 with an RB25DET NEO conversion. It's in a zillion pieces and I'm going to repaint it, engineer it and use it as a weekend warrior. I have a couple of questions though.

When the motor is running, oil pressure is very high. The motor has an RB25 oil pressure sensor but an R32 oil pressure gauge. Does the RB25 and the RB20 send the same voltage signal to the oil pressure gauge, or is the high oil pressure an indicator of a blocked oil return etc (I've only run the motor for about 10 minutes so far).

Secondly, do front mount intercoolers need to be engineered? If so I'll put it in before taking it to get engineered. If not, I'll do it after.

Thirdly, can anyone recommend a good engineer in the Adelaide Hills area?

Cheers!

Sparky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235794-noob-car-plans-and-questions/
Share on other sites

I dont think you will have to get the engine engineered, just upgrade to 34 GT-T rotors and calipers and you should be fine with regency. FMIC's do not need to be engineered, however they will only be legal if there is no cutting/modification to the reo, no cutting/modification to the chassis and it is bolted on correctly so that it deosn't move around (including the piping). AFAIK anyway...

Definately a sweet little project you've got yourself, good luck!!

32 with rb25 neo! ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::P

nice car by the sounds mate! hope it gets out and works alright for ya! goodluck! try the recommended workshops thrread on sau, and nissansilvia.com for some ideas for engineers

if you can take the car for a quick drive and get the car at full temp see what happens to the temp. once my car is first started the oil pressure is abit high but drops after the car gets to full temp.

front mounts are not illegal if you havent cut through the chassis or damaged ther reo as damo_34 has said and mounted correctly.

apply at regency for an engine swap form thing and send it through to them and see what they say. if you have the correct rated breaks to the engine you could get away with it but if not youll need to get the car engineered. if they say this, ask them for which engineer to use, i know on their site somewhere they have a huge list of them to pick from

here you go mate, this could be usefull to you. scroll down to about the 6th page and work your way thorugh it :)

http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/person..._bulletin_3.pdf

and heres that list of engineers that i was talking about. could be worth talking to them before regency i recomend Rory thompson!

http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/person...d_engineers.pdf

happy reading :)

kye

Cheers for all the help peeps!

ovrtym33, I'll get in touch with you if Regency say 33 brakes are enough. Do you have the calipers too or just the rotors?

ImportS13, cheers for the links. I dropped into JAZMAC performance in Mt Barker the other day, he also recommended Rory.

All others, cheers for the positive comments. I'm looking forward to getting it on the road.

RE oil pressure, it sits on 8 when idling and climbs above the gauge when revved hard, which I think is way too high. What grade oil should be used in them? As it's possibly too viscous and not flowing well enough. I need to do a full fluid change.

RE oil pressure, it sits on 8 when idling and climbs above the gauge when revved hard, which I think is way too high. What grade oil should be used in them? As it's possibly too viscous and not flowing well enough. I need to do a full fluid change.

7.5w40 or 10w40 is what most people use. 80psi is normal on my aftermarket gauge for idle when the car has just been cranked. once the oil has warmed up it sits on 30 psi. If I drive the car after its just been started, pressure goes past 80, but never 100psi (which is the max of my gauge). Most times it sits on 40/50 psi while driving after engine is hot, with an idle of 25-30psi. If you get below 20psi, be concerned.

-D

Edited by Dohmar
  • 2 weeks later...

Well I did an oil/filter change using genuine Nissan parts and it still registered very high. So I bought an oil pressure tester and an engine manual. I connected it up to the block and warmed up the motor. The pressures just over what the book says it should be on, so I'm happy with that. The problem is with the oil pressure gauge. I could mount an aftermarket one but I'd like all factory guages to display the correct figure.

There's obviously a voltage difference between the RB20 and RB25 oil pressure sensors, however they're listed in the parts catalogue as using the same sensor!!?? Any thoughts? Can I get the stock 32 gauge recalibrated?

I know one member here had a HUGE issue with engineering her NEO engined R32 - particularly with the brakes.

Apparently the RTA were real idiots with regards to it requiring a particular rotor thickness, and thicker ones wouldn't pass!

It can and has been done however.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...