Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Probably not the same thing but,

Once my 34 went completely dead at a set of traffic lights. Engine stopped, no power to any electrics including my hazard lights so pretty much packed my dacks cos it was night time on main north road.

Anyway had to push it up on the kerb cos it wouldnt start, like there was just nothing.

RAA came and screwed around with it for bout an hour and it was where the battery connects to the engine or something. They had lost contact.

Got it started but ever since then my tacho hasnt worked.

Edited by ontheranch

thanks steve.... im surprised you didnt post some cracked out picture to go with that post lol

Thanks penny, thought was my intial thought but when my car cuts out it does stil have power :D

so embarrassing pushing a skyline hey lol.

im lending an ECU of dohmar and putting it in tonight so that should give me some answers :(

Ok well i didnt even make it to Domahs house to swap in the ECU. called the RAA and he was pretty sure its related to a sensor. just for the fact that when it gets hot it tends to die.

why i can drive it for about 2 hours 1 day and its fine then i drive it for 30 mins and it dies the next day ive no f**king idea.

Tonight i did notice the taco needle spazzed out something cronic just before it died, moving heaps fast between 0 and 2 thousand RPMs.

It would start and fire but then the taco freak out then die. It started everytime though just didnt last long. sending it down to the auto elec tomorrow again.

If i could find a Power FC to borrow to test sensors it may help but i dont think they will show faults while the problem only surfaces at the most inconvenient times :down:

any1 else got any ideas?

appreciate the input

cheers

Hmm... yeah Steve you had that problem but it wasn't intermittent, I don't think it's an earthing problem myself. I had a SIMILAR, I'm not saying exact but similar on my 33GTS-t, it turned out it was a dicky AAC unit and caused all sorts of problems trying to start the car/idle, however it NEVER cut out on me. I take it fuel isn't an issue? As in it is getting fuel (pump isn't rooted)?

well the thought had crossed my mind but i had it pressure tested and its came back squeeky clean (45psi on start up not sure on the rest of the info)

tonight when i called the RAA the guy said it sounds like the CAS but it was benched??? are these things really that anal?

if my pump was on its way out wouldnt it constantly show signs of no power etc???

Hmmm... if they tested the CAS it SHOULD be fine but stranger things have happened, mayhaps it could be a wire/contact leading to the CAS? I dunno here really, I'm stabbing in the dark. Have you taken the car to a PROPER import workshop to see if they have any ideas?

took it to boost n oz and they drove it around like all day and it didnt cut out (if it doesnt cut out they dont know where to start looking)

PROPER import work shop like who?

Take it to Road & Track.... I go there all the time, and they sorted Dan (Inline6) out on Monday...

Details are in my sig

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...