Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys i got heaps of parts for sale, open to offers. Ill update info as i get it. Parts are in west side of melbourne, will post at buyers expense. More parts are available, engines have been sold however and most front ends parts are gone already (including front lights, bars, fenders). Other parts are still on car post for price and availability

Front Brakes $200 set

DSC00851.jpg

Rear Brakes $200 set

DSC00852.jpg

x2 Starter Motor $130 each

DSC00843.jpg

DSC00844.jpg

x2 Air conditioner Pump $70 each

DSC00864.jpg

DSC00865.jpg

Power Steering Pump $70 each

DSC00862.jpg

x2 Intake Pipe $50 each

DSC00866.jpg

DSC00845.jpg

R33 Turbo (Good Condition, was working fine before taken off engine) $400 each

DSC00857.jpg

DSC00858.jpg

DSC00859.jpg

DSC00860.jpg

x3 Engine Mount $40 each

DSC00855.jpg

x2 Cross Over pipe and BOV $100 each

DSC00867.jpg

DSC00846.jpg

R33 Left Lower Control Arm $100

DSC00848.jpg

R33 GTST Front Sway Bar $70

DSC00868.jpg

R33 Front Lower Supports $70 each

DSC00847.jpg

R33 Front Castor Rods $90 each

DSC00853.jpg

Auto Transmission Cooler $80

DSC00861.jpg

Front Left & Right Axels $150 each

DSC00849.jpg

DSC00850.jpg

R33 GTST Engine Loom $60

DSC01037.jpg

R33 Carpet $90

DSC01038.jpg

R33 Seats $150 set

DSC01039.jpg

Assorted Plastics 1 $30

DSC01040.jpg

Assorted Plastics 2 $80

DSC01041.jpg

Assorted Plastics 3 $80

DSC01042.jpg

Assorted Plastics 4 $40

DSC01043.jpg

Edited by Osman R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236078-heaps-of-r33-parts-forsale/
Share on other sites

hey osman

im after the heater hose that goes from the block to inside the firewall

please tell me you still have it

thanks

emre

should have one but i am unsure which pipe it is. do you have a picture, as those lines are still on the car, and the car has no engine so i cant confirm which one is which.

-osman

how much would u think for the front and back brakes to get posted form mel to nsw central coast? as i want bigger brakes on my 180sx and i heard that the r33 brakes go straight on and r much better than the stock 180 brakes.

how much would u think for the front and back brakes to get posted form mel to nsw central coast? as i want bigger brakes on my 180sx and i heard that the r33 brakes go straight on and r much better than the stock 180 brakes.

if you buy both ill only charge you $10 and ill cover the rest

pm me for account details if you want them

need parts for stolen and recovered r33 gts-t

full ignition barrell, turbo timer, gear knob, ecu all the intake from pod filter to turbo including intercooler, b.o.v, coin tray, battery, rear boot flip lock thing, centre bit for between box and gear shifter, series 2 passenger door trim, 2x front quarters, series 2 grill could you help me, how much thanks 0404099310 live in melb west can come and look.

need parts for stolen and recovered r33 gts-t

full ignition barrell, turbo timer, gear knob, ecu all the intake from pod filter to turbo including intercooler, b.o.v, coin tray, battery, rear boot flip lock thing, centre bit for between box and gear shifter, series 2 passenger door trim, 2x front quarters, series 2 grill could you help me, how much thanks 0404099310 live in melb west can come and look.

will call you to organise a time and you can pick what ever you want or need off the cars

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey mate, interested in the dash surround(assorted plastics 2) and the interior carpet, how much for both and postage to Burnie Tasmaina 7320, thanks, please pm me with a response

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...