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Rb30/26 Head Studs? Help Please

SJR

By SJR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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R.I.P.S NZ
R.I.P.S NZ

You 'could' tap the block to 12mm but from experience I can tell you it its perfectly fine to run 11mm RB25 head studs with a 26 head. I've done alot of miles and drags with a best of 8.71 @ 162 with

Alf
Alf

I used ARP Rb26 head studs on my 25/30. Apart from drill and tapping the block the 25 head had to be drilled out to suit the larger head studs. I used the 26 studs as they were cheaper and available

JH32
JH32

Ah cool, cheers guys

sultanaz Proficient

sultanaz

Posted
Posted

Read the post by rips a few up. I wouldn't worry at all about using rb25 head studs.

Yeah i seen that , 8 second defs made me feel better but usually 8 seconds could be rebuilt motors after so many runs etc..

Ok this is excellent feed back... This makes me feel alot better about it.

Did you guys torque the bolts to the recommended setting or go a lil extra?

From memory it was like 85

GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted (edited)

Dont go more torque than in the manual.

Any more may distort the deck of the block which you dont want.

Also remember the RB30 block is thinner and weaker around the bolt holes, the block material is also a lot softer than studs, so removing thread to fit a bigger stud only weakens your blocks deck area for the sake of adding more bolt strength which is already more than adequate.

The deck will distort more than the bolts can stretch.

We are using RB25 studs on our 600KW build.....any give will be from the block deck distorting to hold the studs/head down, not weak studs stretching......

Go back to page 1, 2 well known builders who do this for a reason, if there was a gain going bigger, they would have been doing it.

Edited by GTRPSI
sultanaz Proficient

sultanaz

Posted
Posted

This is what was tripping me out abit too, no tuner i spoke to said they have ever encountered the casting mark where the idler goes... they said they are all flat .

The casting gets in the way of mine... it wasnt a big issue we made it flat but dno if that helps u guys distinguish what type of block it is.

2wqeq9e.jpg

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

This is what was tripping me out abit too, no tuner i spoke to said they have ever encountered the casting mark where the idler goes... they said they are all flat .

The casting gets in the way of mine... it wasnt a big issue we made it flat but dno if that helps u guys distinguish what type of block it is.

2wqeq9e.jpg

there is at least one thread on here with a block with the same issue, I think he was in the usa, cos if you are in oz the obvious thing to do would have been get another block.
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

There are some posts (i think they may have been here) on the web where people have built washer type spacers of fabricated some steel to compensate for the block finish as in the pics above and it worked just fine.

luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

sall good we were able to make it flat and fabricate a solid spacer for it . :)

that's the proper way to do it.

as alrady said, you can get a washer style pacer made, but being timing belt, youd want to be 100% perpendicular.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Couldn't you get sleeves made up to slip into the head bolt holes so you can just use rb25 ones?

You don't need sleeves. It's the dowels that align the head to the block, not the bolts or studs.
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