Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Prices

r34 gt25

By r34 gt25,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted (edited)
^^ :blink:!

I know mines no where near f*ked, just a small market in WA :D

Just sold mine for $7.5k, was a bargain but I wanted it gone. (Sold within 24hrs of going on carsales).

Another thing to note is that with our current (and worsening) economic conditions, and rising fuel prices the value of all cars is going to plummet over the next year. I'd rather sell it cheap now than have it sit around till it naturally dropped to that price in hopes of gaining an extra $1000.

Edited by KezR33
Ten Four Grand Master

Ten Four

Posted
Posted
Just sold mine for $7.5k, was a bargain but I wanted it gone. (Sold within 24hrs of going on carsales).

Another thing to note is that with our current (and worsening) economic conditions, and rising fuel prices the value of all cars is going to plummet over the next year. I'd rather sell it cheap now than have it sit around till it naturally dropped to that price in hopes of gaining an extra $1000.

it only costs $50 to fill up on 95....

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted
it only costs $50 to fill up on 95....

It's psychological more than anything. A 2.5litre engine may not chew through much petrol, but people will always view sports cars (as unsporty as a NA Skyline might be) as fuel guzzlers.

We're lucky though, Skylines (NA in particular) are some what resistant to economic conditions in the sense that most buyers are young with no debt, no mortgage, or dependents (kids, wife, etc) and lets face it, often irrational with their spending.

Ruffels Veteran

Ruffels

Posted
Posted

lol you guys are funny!

i always say it, and i will say it again

"something is only worth what someone else is prepaired to pay for it"

so when someone offers you less its because they arent prepaired to pay your asking price!

get over it, especially in this economic climate.. you might wanna get used to it!

i personally dont think an n/a will ever be worth more then a turbo one... i don't care what p plate restrictions say!

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

hello captain obvious... don't you think everyone knows that?

you don't think an N/A will ever be worth more than a turbo, but as an 'economy expert' you should know that the turbo models are equally being sold for the same price and quite often a lot less. however i am quite intrigued as to why you feel that an N/A will never be worth more than a turbo, is it due to its worth in equipment? i.e. turbo, brakes, etc. or due to it's demand? your argument isn't consistent and to me it is you that is funny.

simple facts are that the p-platers' are simply low-balling in hopes of getting a bargain, the problem is that it's not just one guy doing it they are all doing it. this is primarily sparked by people desperate to sell (regardless of condition) and taking the first offer of cash coming their way. it's not so much that they aren't prepared to pay the asking price because of worth, but because they know someone else who got it for that price.

i.e. Mr. A has a massive credit card debt from modding his skyline, plus the fact that the poor economy isn't helping with his fuel bills. So in desperate attempts he tries to sell his car for 12K, nothing, 10K, nothing, 8K nothing. Mr. P-Plate offers a genuine 5K and Mr. A takes it. Mr. P-Plate tells his mates, then his mates go around looking for other people like Mr. A who are desperate to offload and before you know it everyone who's looking to buy is offering no more than 5K because his cousin's brother's retarded boyfriend got a skyline for 5K. however we are not all that desperate to offload.

so it's not that the sellers are expecting too much, but more so the fact that the buyers are expecting far below due to another experience.

last note: if you're going to come in here and preach expertise, at least learn to spell a bit and i'll take you a little more seriously.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...