Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ,

New to gtr ownership

when changing gears you can really feel it going into gear and sort of feel the next gear engaging through the stick..

as i said i never owned a gtr before so im not sure what is normal

p.s im changing the gear box oil next week just because i know it prob never has been changed over in jdm land

what are your thoughts on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237541-notchy-bnr32-box/
Share on other sites

yeah they are pretty heavy duty gearboxes stock, and the synchros do wear. Just put redline lightweight gearbox oil in it and see if it helps. Gearbox oil in every car I've bought in from japan has been terrible - probably never been changed.

exactly it is just a heavy duty box designed to take heaps of power. it will never shift like an mx5, I have a brand new gearbox in my race car and it is still quite clunky

anyway, try the oil it helps the synchros stop crunching in older boxes. If that doesn't work its time for new bearing and sychros

exactly it is just a heavy duty box designed to take heaps of power. it will never shift like an mx5, I have a brand new gearbox in my race car and it is still quite clunky

anyway, try the oil it helps the synchros stop crunching in older boxes. If that doesn't work its time for new bearing and sychros

sweet well hope to catch up some day and steal some more advice:)

Not to sure of redline im not a big believer that an oil can protect against shock in the gearbox but I maybe wrong never blown a gearbox up and ive had some pretty big powered engines and always used castrol if your in Adelaide ring Jamie from JRM Transmissions he would be able to tell you what oil would be best good luck....luke

Edited by luke james

yea I agree - its not that it protects the box better, in fact redline say not to run their oil in synchro boxes because it accelerates wear (too thin). But when the box is already tired it has been shown time and time again to reduce the crunches from worn synchros.

There's no magic product that puts bits of metal back on synchro rings that I've ever heard of

yea I agree - its not that it protects the box better, in fact redline say not to run their oil in synchro boxes because it accelerates wear (too thin). But when the box is already tired it has been shown time and time again to reduce the crunches from worn synchros.

There's no magic product that puts bits of metal back on synchro rings that I've ever heard of

good points all

ill just go the nissan recomended stuff it seems

or the castrol one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...