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Pod v's Stock Air Box Temperature Results

Guest Robo's

By Guest Robo's,
in General Automotive Discussion

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Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted

I planted the temperature probe between the AFM and the turbo.

With the stock airbox, stock over radiator duct and another 1 1/2 inch duct, temperature was very stable driving from traffic light to traffic light. After the car sitting, the temperature rose somewhat (say 20 degrees) this is after a couple of hours of being parked, and was slower to move down, i guess this is heat soak.

Now just installed the pod today, and at first notice the temperatures fluctuated alot. On a cold cruise, it was nearly as cold as the stocky, but as soon as your stopped, you could watch the thermomoter rise very quickly. But then it would cool quickly too as you start driving but still not as cold as the box.

I will continue with the POD for a few days and experiment a bit more.

Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted

Some more testing with the POD

1) POD only matches the stock air box on the open freeway, 100+

2) Any slight slow down and the POD gets warmer, usually about 5 degrees.

3) POD's temperature rises straight away at the traffic lights, upto 5 degrees at one set of lights, Air Box will rise approx 1 degree.

4) In traffic it took the stock air box to rize to 30 degrees in about 20 minutes, POD was at 30 degrees in 3/4 minutes.

5)This is funny, travelling on the freeway with 2 quick bursts in 3rd, saw the pod rise 5 degrees.

Whether these tests do anything to performance or not is a different story, well for me the stock air box is on.

riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by 2fardown

I took off my HKS pod and replaced it with the stock airbox and a K&N panel filter on the weekend.  I honestly found it difficult to notice the difference between the two.

Surely you must've noticed an increase in bottom end torque (below boost)? When I replaced my pod for a K&N panel the car also became more responsive, for example, the boost guage needle jumps when you punch it.

Its also good to have the exhaust note back! Induction noise is annoying!

My 2c: pods are a waste of money unless you have a CAI.

Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by fattdex

Have you made an airbox around the pod, or is it just stuck in the general position of the stockie with no shielding??

No shielding, although the standard cold air duct was still attached. Even if it was shielded, i just cannot see any cold air getting in there, so eventually its going to heat soak.

180sxboosting Newbie

180sxboosting

Posted
Posted

I think what it comes down to is what your looking for.. if u want that extra go down low the the air box with a good filter and some CAI would be the go.. but for that extra bit up top maybe the pod with a heatshield and CAI would do the trick? I think i'd prefer to have real nice mid/top range power because when ya want to go fast your at 80km/h real fast anyway and u still gotta hit that limmiter:P

I have gatehred some information from various people on this it doesn't solve much but brings some things to light.

"u do loose a bit of power down low but the power gain that i got topend with the pod was much better, but i think a properly set up air box with cold air running to it and a proper panel filter would probably be better. "

"POD's are a good investment for the mid-topend performance, but to be effective down low they need to be sealed correctly."

rb25 Grand Master

rb25

Posted
Posted

I've done tests with a pod filter and partition with the stock air duct feeding into the partitioned space. I'll post results like Robo's did:

1) the temps stablise at 60+ even in heavy traffic (not 100)

2) pod does get warmer by 5deg when you slow down a bit. but cools down again, as long as your over 60km/h

3) POD's temperature rises straight away at the traffic lights by a massive 25deg. on idle for 3 minutes, not 5deg. it took 7 minutes of driving at 70km/h to lose the heat soak.

5) travelling on the freeway with 2 quick bursts in 3rd, saw the pod drop by 3deg., not rise 5deg. Driving on full boost saw the pod actually drop in temp.

I think the important test is plenum and intercooler temps (actual intake temps), not pod temp.

This was done on stock boost, stock intercooler, 3" turbo back exhaust. (R33)

-rb25

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

I'm thinking to add a little bit of heat shielding on the factory air box, especially the bottom part of the airbxo where it may collect heat from the engine bay faster. Anyone recommend a good heat insulator that is easy to apply?

I reckon with heat insulation and a hi flow panel filter like K&N or Blitz Sus or Apexi, the factory airbox will give excellent cold air feed to the turbine & engine!

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

ARC made a box induction kit. Blitz also have similar one, so you'll get the quiet intake operation with higher flow airbox. Not sure if you can put the factory inlet duct over those induction box, so it's not just an open panel that sucks hot air from the engine bay...

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I've had my car on the dyno making 164rwkw on 1 bar of boost.

We removed the stock airbox and stock air filter and slapped a K&N Pod filter in there. The bonnet was open and there was no heat soak. The K&N made absolutly no power gain any where in the rev range, there also was no loss either.

Since then I've adapted a 100mm CAI from the inner guard in to the stock air box. I used 2 x 45degree PVC bends. One facing forward in the inner guard and the other on top facing in to the stock air box.

I then grabbed some plastic painted it black and use silicon to attach it to the side of the air box to give it a flush stock look.

Its heaps noisy now. I've driven through big puddles etc and checked the air filter. Not once has the filter been soaked. You get the usual slight mist however that cannot be helped.

With the 45degree bend in the inner guard it is slightly off centre so it doesn't get a big gulp of water rather it deflects off it slightly.

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

I'd love to see how pod performs on dyno with bonnet close.

Most cars when dyno-ed they have their bonnets up, I know u need to run a pressure sensor from dyno to the engine, but will tuning be more street accurate with bonnet just down? Even if the bonnet not fastened, just lying shut.

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