Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 120
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yes i have done it several times,

if you double the bag over it will hold nearly 2 bar.

2 bar coming out thru a leak makes a loud noise so its easy to find and then fix.

who knows he may have 3 or 4 leaks.

i know last time i did it i had 2 leaks

in regards to which hose it dosent matter as long as its a vacum hose.

ie the fuel reg, a ebc, bov line, they are all about 3 - 5 mm inside diamater which fits snuggly over your air comp nozzle.

simple tight seal that you dont need to hold onto

just charge it up with a couple squirts of air and then go hunting for leaks.

Edited by dangerman4

Just had this problem on a mates R34..

I know its a pain in the arse and a bit late now if booked into Morpowa Thursday..\

but we :

Took exhaust off to see if it was blocked... it wasnt cause was still idleing shit with it off.

He then pulled all the vaccum lines and intercooler piping off and check for cracks, perished lines.

He could also hear a air leak like you and eventually found that the O rings on the injectors had perished and sucking in air..

Have you check that the actuator on the turbo is attached correctly? Had them come loose in the past also :)

Good Luck!! these things definately test your patience :)

If you get a length of garden hose (about 1m) you can hold 1 end to your ear and the other you poke around the engine bay (running or not). It will act like a doctors stethoscope and help you accuratly locate noises (vacume leaks) in places you can't/won't get your ear to.

did u check the lines off the plennum? they are after the TB so the test wont reach the plennum if that's where the issue is.

ummm think about it...

if his pumping air into a vac hose they all come off the plenum,

so therfor the whole system is full of compressed air both before and after the throttle body, its not hard to open the throttle if

your concerned about the air getting past it.

does your car sound a little like a wrx at idle?

as there were no air leaks my finger is pointed at the ringlands.

at least one piston, probally several of them.

rebuild time.

^^ thats what i was thinkin mate, would that explain the f**ked up sound on boost?

this just happend to my mates 33, ringland, and mine sounds almost identical :/

IM SORRY 2 SAY CRAIG BUT REBUILD = BIG$$$$$$$$$

OR JUST PUT A 2ND MOTOR IN THEN f*k THE CAR OFF

lol at rebuilds and serious issues.

if it's serious u will see a lot of light bluey grey smoke, if it's black u can be almost guarenteed its a little stupid niggling issue any decent shop will pick up on within a few hours if that.

sorry to here u didnt find it mate, the squirt bottle trick works to find the o ring issues on the injectors, the mist of water cause the cyl to miss fire and you can hear it in the idle easy. same thing for leaking vacuum lines and gaskets.

what colour was the smoke ?

did u notice i described the types of smoke and main causes for them earlier in the posts?

working on race cars for years i know a little bit about them....lol more then i care to sometimes...lol

but since i didnt win the lotto i have to wrench my own cars except warranty stuff.

good luck mate

i had a workshop blow piston 6 ringland on the dyno, when driving it home it it was lumpy as and it just wouldnt hit boost but didnt blow any smoke at all

im sure simon at morpowa will find the problem 4 u craig

when my rb20 did a piston, i only noticed cos of the weird sound at idle, boosted hard for the months i drove it around till i did the conversion. It never made the the sound your talking about under boost, def sounds like a turbo/zorst leak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...