Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Age: 12 y.o

Condition: All parts are in working order

Location: Southern Sydney, Gymea

Contact: PM with any questions

Comments: Very neg. on prices.

If you want any more pictures just ask.

I'll have to upload more pictures tomorrow, as most of the pictures i have are over 2MB and wont upload.

Series 1.5 Differential Cradle w/ Diff & Hicas Rack (ABS) - $500ono++

Series 1.5 Stub Axles w/ Lower Control Arms - $200ono++

Series 1.5 Front Struts - $100ono

Series 1.5 Steering Rack - $100ono

Series 1.5 ABS Unit - $50ono

Series 1.5 Window Washer Bottle - $20ono

Series 1.5 Overflow Bottle - $20ono

Series 1.5 Brake Booster - $100ono

Series 1.5 Passenger Side Window Switch - $10ono

Series 1.5 Passenger Side Mirror (White) - $50ono

Series 1.5 Front Windscreen Wiper Arms - $20ono

Series 1.5 Front Windscreen Wiper Motor - $20ono

Series 1.5 Rear Brake Caliper (Side Unknown) - $50ono

Series 1.5 Rear Brake Rotors - $50ono

Series 1.5 Pedal Assembly (Clutch, Brake & Accelerator w/ Throttle Cable) - $50ono

post-11625-1222755472_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222755540_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222755734_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222755832_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222755860_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222755914_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222756134_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238267-r33-gts-t-parts/
Share on other sites

Age: 13 y.o

Condition: All parts are in working order

Location: Southern Sydney, Gymea

Contact: PM with any questions

Comments: Very neg. on prices.

If you want any more pictures just ask.

I'll have to upload more pictures tomorrow, as most of the pictures i have are over 2MB and wont upload.

Series 1 Side Skirts - $150ono

Series 1 Side Mount Intercooler - $50ono

Series 1 Standard Turbo w/ Lines - $300ono

Series 1 Turbo Heat Shield - $20ono

Series 1 Standard Fuel Pump x 2 - $50ono each

Series 1 Standard Fuel Pressure Regulator - $20ono

Series 1 Standard BOV - $20ono

Series 1 Engine Fan - $50ono

Series 1 Rear Spoiler - $50ono

Series 1 Dump Pipe - $50ono

Series 1 Valley Cover - $20ono

Series 1 Air Intake Pipe - $20ono

Series 1 Air Snorkel - $10ono

Series 1 Ohlins Rear Struts w/ Dampening Adjustments & Springs - $200ono (Fronts available but are useless)

post-11625-1222756575_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222756614_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222756646_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222756718_thumb.jpg

post-11625-1222756747_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238267-r33-gts-t-parts/#findComment-4165569
Share on other sites

moonus - sorry mate, dont have any rear quater glasses

G0DZLR - ill take some pictures of it today and pm you. i dunno if they are M-Spec all i know is they are from a Series 1 GTS-T

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238267-r33-gts-t-parts/#findComment-4210456
Share on other sites

Series 1.5 Stub Axles have now been stripped apart.

**New Parts**

Series 1.5 Front Lower Control Arms - **Sold pending payment**

Series 1.5 Front Upper Control Arms - $50ono

Series 1.5 Front Castor Rods - $50ono

Series 1.5 Front Wishbones - $50ono

Series 1.5 Front Brake Hubs w/ Lines - $100ono

Series 1 Inlet Manifold - $50ono

Series 1 Throttle Body - $50ono

GTR Series 3 Genuine Nissan Front Bar Indicators - $50ono

Pictures will be up tomorrow.

Feel free to make an offer :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238267-r33-gts-t-parts/#findComment-4223596
Share on other sites

GTR Series 3 Genuine Nissan Front Bar Indicators - $50ono

Just found out they are NOT GENUINE NISSAN Indicators....

They are just copies. :)

phatlavish - thanks mate, ill check that up :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238267-r33-gts-t-parts/#findComment-4226502
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...