Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's a full wide body kit...Dontknow how wide the fenders a though. What you guys reckon?

that is a pretty wild kit, any idea who its by? or is it custom

True that, the widebody "kit" needs to be moulded to the body of the car, not just stick out.. looks like someone grabbed some peices of metal and plastic and glued it to the side of the R34.

MRXTCZ

kinda have to agree sadly, i think moulding it to the body would help heaps

2800 for the whole kit, front bar side skirts rear bar and wide guards or 2800? widebodying a car is pretty expensive alota time involved gota pop rivert the guards on grind of the head bog over the top then sand back down

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
hey

anyone know how i can get my hands on that Cross Factory kit?

anyone bought it or know a group in melbourne that could import it?

any help would be good, cheers

www.rhdjapan.com sell it,

I hope you have deep pockets, expect to pay around the 10k mark delivered for the full kit, not at all a cheap one, that is the only place that i know of atm that sells the kit

www.rhdjapan.com sell it,

I hope you have deep pockets, expect to pay around the 10k mark delivered for the full kit, not at all a cheap one, that is the only place that i know of atm that sells the kit

10K... ur way off its only AUD 9518.49....... lol DAMN!

looks like ill have to cut my losses

thanx anyways

lol, actually, we are both off, its $10,387.87 for the whole kit, you must have missed a piece lol

the kit is made up of...

Side Skirts - AUD 1550.08

Rear Bar - AUD 1642.63

Wide Rear Guards - AUD 1935.23

Wide front guards - AUD 1739.47

Front bar - AUD 2098.90

Front bar Lip - AUD 1403.56

totalling AUD 10,387.87 shipped.

see link below for each part

cross factory kit from rhd!

This is a personal favourite, hopefully what id like to eventually get, its a West Yokohama kit:

r34gtr-front-4.jpg

r34gtr-front-1.jpg

r34gtr-front-7.jpg

Its a kit for GTT's dont need to replace the bonnet and it looks like the GTR bumper. Its also not mega low which is a bonus for a daily. Only thing is i dont know of anyone that sells it here in australia.

Ive got a pic of the bumper on a 4 door r34 that looks hot, hopefully post that up as soon as i can find it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...