Jump to content
SAU Community

I Need A Waterpump!

BLKR34GTT

By BLKR34GTT,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

BLKR34GTT Enthusiast

BLKR34GTT

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I'm just about to do my 100,000km service on my R34 GTT. So far I'v got the engine oil and filter. The timebelt and the kit is on it's way. But I can't any the waterpump or the fuel filter. I'v tried two Repcos and Bursons. None of them stock the waterpump or fuel filter. They won't even order them in. WTF is going on? Anyone know some place I can get that stuff in melbounre?

Cheers People!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238663-i-need-a-waterpump/
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
You can buy N1 water pumps for cheap from forum sponsors

N1 water pump on a street car is not the best option. If the car spends a lot of time at high rpm, fine, but on the street you may find the car may over heat, especially in traffic on a hot summer day.

jakez88 Veteran

jakez88

Posted
Posted

damn why are you guys buying from repco/bursons? theres a gates timing belt kit on ebay for around $360? thats the blue gates timing belt which is the heavy duty one.

kudos motor sport have the genuine nissan timing belt with ngk kit for around $260? why would you pay retail for?

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

Just buy a water pump off nissan for $90. If they don't have it in stock they can get it in that afternoon.

If you call a gates belt supplier you can probably get the belts alot cheaper.

I think genuine nissan timing belts are only $110.

Player_Hater Proficient

Player_Hater

Posted
Posted
also, bursons do have them. they are the same waterpump as used in a VL and a R31 I think i paid $70 fo one. just ask for one for a vl commodore in your best bogan accent and you will get it cheap :P

VL water pumps from a rb30 dont fit... at least when i tried years ago on my rb26 .. there ever so slightly bigger then the nissan items..

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
N1 water pump on a street car is not the best option. If the car spends a lot of time at high rpm, fine, but on the street you may find the car may over heat, especially in traffic on a hot summer day.

Yeah i was a bitworried about that on my 32, but never had a probelm on hot days :)

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted (edited)
Nissan RB25DET (R34, C34 Neo Engine)

Basic: 1, 2, 1 & 3 - Only $518.10 x-click-but22.gif

Heavy Duty Kit: 1, 3, 1 & 3 - $592.90 x-click-but22.gif

Tuners Kit: 1, 3, 1, 3 & 2 - $763.40 x-click-but22.gif

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...vi-t137554.html

Got one for my 33, paid for it at about 7pm monday night had it by 8:30am wednesday.

Edited by W0rp3D
Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

I've used a supercheap vl commodore waterpump on a rb26 before so I don't know what your talking about?? Perfect fit. All RB series water pumps are probably the same.

I think N1 water pumps are a little wank for a rb under 300rwkw. I've got a std radiator and pump with 280rwkw and the water gauge never moves in a 20 min track session.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...