Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I suspect my LSD is getting tired so I'm investigating a newie. I've come up with the Nismo Pro 1.5. It comes in 2 versions, one of which is adjustable for how much it locks up. It has three settings (low / med / high) depending on what use you've got for it. This can be adjusted externally on the side of the diff housing with a socket set. All you got to do is get the car on a hoist or some ramps / stands and away you go. Cost difference is $170 so negligible in the scheme of things....

So the question is.....in the real world how useful would this feature be? And is it reliable? I guess it's Nismo, but it also sounds like something else to go wrong.....

Thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/
Share on other sites

Best advice is to down load the manual off the Nismo website & see for yourself how easilly (or otherwise) the pre load can be adjusted. Then decide if it is a useful feature. For my 10 cents it is not worth the effort. They are an agressive diff in anycase, irrespective of the setting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4173338
Share on other sites

Perhaps then the lower setting would be useful for the road? Given occasional track use and some road use what other diffs do you think I could be looking at?

Thanks.

I have a GT Pro and have it set on the lowest pre-load setting... its still really aggressive. If you wear semi-slicks it will really bang and crash in the rear end as it loads and unloads.. wearing street rubber, it will still 'chatter' the tyres in tights turns at slow speeds just like a locked diff.. but its not so bad on streets. If it were your daily driven car - it would annoy the b'jesus out of me and is possibly pretty hard on your tyre wear.. If its more Sat/Sun and track days - its a great option.

I would investigate the GT Pro TT if I were you - same diff but slightly less aggressive. I haven't tried it so can't say how much less..

The other one I would look at, just from what I have read, the ATS Carbon..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4175369
Share on other sites

Thanks for that. It will have R spec and won't be a daily but that all sounds like a lot of agro. I was told by the supplier the TT was for track use........Best I do some more research.

Any other opinions or experiences out there?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4175463
Share on other sites

Thanks for that. It will have R spec and won't be a daily but that all sounds like a lot of agro. I was told by the supplier the TT was for track use........Best I do some more research.

Any other opinions or experiences out there?

Yep TT is for track use (so is the normal Pro - that's what I use it for). The difference is the Pro has a 55degree ramp angle and the TT has a 45 degree ramp... the idea I believe is that the TT locks up a little more progressively that the normal pro - and that makes it a little more friendly through corners.. (apparently).

If it is not for daily though, the Pro is a very good diff and you'll find it hooks up great.

Good luck with it anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4175574
Share on other sites

I have the TT Pro in my 32R. Sure it hops a wheel but it makes the rear feel more predictable IMHO. Do it! The TT is fairly easy to live with although I wouldn't want to use it in a daily.

Have a read of this interesting diff thread

Thanks. so did you put the Nismo kit in your std diff?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4176041
Share on other sites

OK. So I've been on the Nismo site and yes the TT is the milder diff, contrary to the advice I thought I'd been given by a vendor! Sounds like that'd be more suitable for my application. Next hurdle is the 1.5 way versus the 2 way (or other brands.....). I understand the std R32 GTR rear diff is a 2 way, but that it is quite a slack diff? So not too aggressive. I also understand the 2 way locks as much on decel as accel, but don't beleive that this relates specificaly to how aggresive the diff is e.g. the skipping and chattering etc but this inference seems to have been drawn in some threads.....?

So, what is the effect of a 2 way compared to a 1.5 way both in terms of its livability day to day and its performance as a diff when its doing its stuff (its....)

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4176630
Share on other sites

Yes the stock GT-R diff is a 2 way, but there is much more to it than that.

Firstly the preload on the stock diff from factory is ALOT less than the NISMO item.

Secondly you don't need a diff that locks on the over run in a GT-R - it serves no purpose other than to exacerbate the GT-Rs inherent handling faults, ie understeer.

Third as long as your ATTESSA system is working correctly (ie not worn out) you don't need much in the way of a rear diff. An Attessa controller will eliminate any last vestiges of wheel spin so get one of those instead of going too hard on the diff.

There are two parameters for how aggressive a diff is - the preload & the ramp angle. More preload = more aggressive. More ramp angle = more aggressive.

Lastly check the other Nismo options.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4176791
Share on other sites

Great info. Thank you. Yeah, good point re the 4wd system. I guess I have a switch to 'lose' the fronts for a little sideways action so am interested in the diff as a 2wd set up too.

I'll look into all the points you've raised.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4176891
Share on other sites

^...and it scares small children and old people. lol

Thanks. so did you put the Nismo kit in your std diff?

Nope. Pro TT LSD...I like it. Not too clunky at the factory setting. I'll see how I go when I get a chance to try it out at the track

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4178328
Share on other sites

Yes the stock GT-R diff is a 2 way, but there is much more to it than that.

Firstly the preload on the stock diff from factory is ALOT less than the NISMO item.

Secondly you don't need a diff that locks on the over run in a GT-R - it serves no purpose other than to exacerbate the GT-Rs inherent handling faults, ie understeer.

Third as long as your ATTESSA system is working correctly (ie not worn out) you don't need much in the way of a rear diff. An Attessa controller will eliminate any last vestiges of wheel spin so get one of those instead of going too hard on the diff.

There are two parameters for how aggressive a diff is - the preload & the ramp angle. More preload = more aggressive. More ramp angle = more aggressive.

Lastly check the other Nismo options.

The ATTESSA controller, is the Ruzdic engineering the one to go for? Are there alternatives? Be interesting to read up on these. Thanks for your input.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4180484
Share on other sites

The ATTESSA controller, is the Ruzdic engineering the one to go for? Are there alternatives? Be interesting to read up on these. Thanks for your input.

If its for circuit/track then yes. I use one. Probably no good for drags as it doesn't take the longitudinal G into account... only lateral. At least that is my understanding of it. So launching is just the same as stock more or less... only in the twisty bits does it come into play.

Haven't had the opportunity to drive with any other though, so can't make back to back comparison I'm afraid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238720-nismo-pro-lsds/#findComment-4180551
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...