Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guy's

Took my car do to guilt-toy for him to unlock my power FC yesterday since Croydon locked it that's a whole other story that I’ll let him explain.

so we went for a little road tune. Now my car is a r32 gtr with r34 N1's the bigger ones apparently. I have a GReddy Profec B Spec II Boost controller and with it switched off it makes only 6 psi now that doesn't seem right since i thought that they had a 14 psi spring on the wastgate.

anyway we went for a drive it's laggy as all fck and it makes 6 psi (boost controller off) at around 5500rpm or latter.

Now this issue of lag has been around since i had the car it's alway's felt laggy but it was at least making 14psi before but with heaps of lag. like i said in previous topics it just didn't feel like a GTR.

Nismoid i told you it was laggy, u said i had a half baked set up remember. i said other people were getting better response out of there same set up. You still said it was half baked, you bell-end, for a helpful moderator your as useful as a cock flavoured lolly pop.

we turned the boost controller up it's set for 14psi and it wouldn't make anything more than 12psi we turned all the boost controller setting to max and still only 12psi Guilt toy has made the car much much more responsive and you can feel it pulling up top but

1. it's very very laggy it's making the 12 psi very very late probablly close to 7000rpm

2. not going past 12 psi boost no matter what i do.

i'll post a list of the mods but any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers

Anthony

ACL Forged Pistons

ACL Piston Rings

ACL Big End Bearings

ACL Main Bearings

Ported and polished head

Stock polished crank and rods

Bored and honed Block

N1 Oil pump

N1 Water pump

Tomei Oil Gallery restrictor

Gates timing belt

New engine gaskets all round

New Thermostat

New NGK spark plugs

R34 GTR injectors

R34N1 turbos C106/GT25 A/R 0.60/0.64

New Rod bolts, welsh plugs

3" Trust Front pipe and Power Extreme II Cat back Exhaust

3" Metal cat

Twin Apexi Pods

Apexi Power FC & Hand Controller

Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller

Nismo fuel pump

Edited by black sky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238829-whats-wrong-with-my-car/
Share on other sites

I was spot on the money at the time I remember very well (see the links below), given the information you provided. Doesnt sound like i'm much off even now.

To actually make it clear (because your obviously a weee bit confused) i was talking about CAM GEARS and the fact your tuner said there were no gains to be had which is absolute rubbish. Being both the threads were, you guessed it, about cam gears.

How many people on this forum then told you about cam gears yet you still didnt listen?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...La-t168952.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rs-t158108.html

So anyway, not you've had your spasm... we've actually now been given something meaningful in terms of trial/error etc. It does now sound like you've got actuator issues, have you checked and made sure they are installed correctly?

Can you hear any 'tingle' metal sound out the exhaust indicating a loose gate valve?

Or something else is amiss, they aren't 'modded' turbos by chance?

Still doesnt detract from the fact you will get gains at the end of the day... from (wait for it) cam gears!

If you wanna attack, thats fine. But when you post threads with half the story - expect half the help. Simple as that.

Hopefully Guilt can post up with some more in-depth information for people to help diagnose whats wrong.

I would agree with actuators being the issue. No boost until 5500rpm then it comes up to 6psi. Sounds like the gate is slightly open. You don't always hear the rattle either.

Even if they are adjusted correctly and the actuators are stuffed, they may be cracking open at 1psi and bleeding everything off until you create the required gas flow.

You need to put a mighty-vac on the vac line and pump pressure into the actuator. You will be able to see the arm move when you have created the opening pressure. If they move at 1 or 2 psi, then bin them. If they move at 10psi, adjust the arm.

the car is laggier then a CB70 with a GT3582r on it and it still pulls like a train (after 6000 rpm) (CB70 is the charade 3 cyl 1 litre twin cam engine)

Its got to be the actuators!

Also the boost sol is on the intake side and its using a spaghetti style hose system to go around the back of the engine to the front of the car.

I suggested these 2 things.

1: buy some HKS actuators and install them

2: move the sol to the turbo side of the engine

This should fix the car up, i estimate its only got 240 - 260kw atm.

I think trying to diagnose the problem may be a waste of time, you need to get those actuators replaced asap ! once this happens your turbos will have no choice but to make boost.

You can try and get 2 springs, wire them on the wastegate holding them shut firmer... if the car makes more boost (becuase the spring is holding more load on the wastegate) then you know your actuators are shot.

just a tip :merli:

go the cb70.... little off topic there....

but I would also say it sounds like actuator, given the symptoms

hehehee i once put 22deg timing on 22psi in one of those motors, damn it went hard!

I'd say actuator also, cause my gtst was doing the same thing too when i had a boost controller in, now its changed, it's working like how its suppose to work.

Yup. i told him what he needs to do. Hopefully he sorts it out soon..

once you fix it you will love the power, will feel like a different car!

the car is laggier then a CB70 with a GT3582r on it and it still pulls like a train (after 6000 rpm) (CB70 is the charade 3 cyl 1 litre twin cam engine)

Its got to be the actuators!

Also the boost sol is on the intake side and its using a spaghetti style hose system to go around the back of the engine to the front of the car.

I suggested these 2 things.

1: buy some HKS actuators and install them

2: move the sol to the turbo side of the engine

This should fix the car up, i estimate its only got 240 - 260kw atm.

I think trying to diagnose the problem may be a waste of time, you need to get those actuators replaced asap ! once this happens your turbos will have no choice but to make boost.

You can try and get 2 springs, wire them on the wastegate holding them shut firmer... if the car makes more boost (becuase the spring is holding more load on the wastegate) then you know your actuators are shot.

just a tip :)

Ok i just blocked off the air filters and presurised the lines by running air through them.

the front turbo's wastegate starts tp open at 3psi and the back turbo is starting to open at 7 psi

i'm guessing this is not normal, when are they supposed to start opening

so do i change both actuators??

Cheers

anthony

Edited by black sky

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...