Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys my sr is making a tapping noise around 2-3k it started last night when I was like 25k's from home I drove home keeping it under 3000rpms.

If it is the bearing how good are the odds that I'm gonna need a rebuild? it was still driving fine when I got home? do you think It'll be right to just change bearings?

Cheers,

Russ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/
Share on other sites

are you doing the work yourself or not ? If your paying someone to do it, once you have the engine out and open, it might be worth throwing forgies and a set of rods in there.. ($2k) since you're probably going to be paying that much in labour. Put a decent head gasket in there too.

in any case, if your not gonna replace parts, get them checked out thoroughly.. i'd say your crank will need machining at the least

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4174582
Share on other sites

Well your looking @ 1k for motor in/out before you start.

Then, if fitting new bearings your gonna have to machine everything to suit the 4 new ones you'll have to put in etc.

So 3k would be in the ball park as you cant really just swap one bearing, you do them all and freshen it all up.

You sure its a bearing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4174759
Share on other sites

pretty sure.. Its not something I have done before myself but a friend of mine done his in his silvia and said it sounds the same.. he's pretty in the know with these cars as he drifts and built his monstar, It seems to idle fine however if I give it a little rev it starts a knocking sound at 2-3rpms then clears up.. its a pretty loud knock very easy to here. and just sounds like it's coming from the head or front of the motor!

cheers

Russ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4174858
Share on other sites

could be something in the head?

Im not up with whats inside SR heads, maybe a valve or something?

I thought a bearing knock didnt go away with RPM (as i did here a XR6t here and the knock only got louder with RPM), could well be wrong there

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4175019
Share on other sites

If you were giving it a good thrash just before it happened, its extremely highly likely its the bearings. Perhaps just look around on forums on here and boostcruising for someone who just wants to get rid of their sr, then all you have to do is take out the old one and put in the one you buy, then you have a whole motor sitting there for spares. I know my mate could have picked up a working ca for 150 im not sure on prices for the sr. But first thing you should do before you make any moves is get advice from a qualified mechanic and go from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4175111
Share on other sites

I thought a bearing knock didnt go away with RPM (as i did here a XR6t here and the knock only got louder with RPM), could well be wrong there

spot on.

i would get a professional to check it out before you start spending big cash.

Edited by dmr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4175620
Share on other sites

Possibly a rocker arm. My ca was doing a similiar thing but it was the big end bearings gone. Soon after that i threw a rod. Go and get it checked from a mechanic. ust to be sure. I am not sure if the guys on here are right about the bearing noise would not go away as mine always did. As soon as i got over a certain rpm it wnt away. DR drift tunes a mates car and heard the same noise on a smaller scale up in darwin and then stopped tuning but he said it was a bearing knock and that goes away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4177494
Share on other sites

its alot more difficult to diagnose a engine noise in a full alloy block as the knock resinates through it.

best way to do it is to take load of cylinder by unplugging coil pack plug or injector harness one at a time. if noise lessens on a particular cylinder when you do this you can be pretty sure it is down stairs.

SRs are renound for this, usually because the sump has been pushed up and seals the oil pick-up. Look under the car and see if the sump is dinted.

I did a big end set in a GTIR last week, cost the guy $800. this included genuine bearings, synthetic oil & filter. Done it in the car. No probs. Only thing to check is that the crank isnt damaged. otherwise its engine out and full build.

where would that sound come from? mine seems to be coming from the top of the engine on the exhuast side!!! dam car only had it a week :blink:
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4177795
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
The bearing noise would be there all the time man, there is no way that you feck a bearing and only hear it at a certain RPM.

i work with them all day lol.

Well actually, i KNOW from personal experience, that in my commodore (yes its not an sr) the big end bearings went on that, and before the motor died it made a knocking sound as you increased the revs and especially under load with the sound getting greater at heavier throttle. So yes, you do hear it at a certain rpm before the motor dies of course. The big end bearings can set your motors life short instantly, over very short time or could extend over a longer period of time depending on the severity of the damage to the bearings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4200919
Share on other sites

yeh I have no plans on spending cash at the moment LOL

It sounds like this.

this is not from my car but one on youtube doing the same thing.

Watta you think it is?

hmm that noise is weird as hell.....

any luck with the mechanic???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238844-help-please/#findComment-4203266
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...