Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so as planed i booked the car in to make up a new intake pipe at sureflow and pick up a new dump pipe and clmap from otomoto.

so come friday morning im on my way to pick up the car, jump in and crank it over. the car starts but is only running on 3 cylinders! BAH!! so i thought ok plugs are flooded because car is running really rich so i take them out and clean them, remove all the fuel from all cylinders, crank her over and she is still missing! ended up having to go thru the elimination proccess

1.plugs

2.ignitor modual

3.coil packs

4.ecu

ect

all of the above were working fine...

i was out of options, the only other possible issue that came to mind was the second hand s15 injectors that i installed. so off came the plenume and the fuel rail! as i was removing the fuel rail 1 injector just started pooring out all over the engine like a tap!

so i removed all of the injectors from the rail and found that 4 out of the 6 seals were broken! ahh last thing i wanted on the day that the car was booked in for some work. so of i went down to nissan, picked up new seals and the injectors went back in. cranked her over and she started firing all cylinders. YAY!

was time to take her down to otomoto to pick up a new dump pipe and clamp and re-book a time with sureflow. on the way there in 4th gear on a hill we put her underload to test boost levels, only to find she hit 18psi !! oh !@#$ another issue.

so i picked up a 38mm external gate that is going to be welded on to the turbo housing.

the car is now apart, will be welding the wastegate next week.

yeah mate told you they have boost issues

not sure how ur 38mm is going to go but it SHOULD hold boost fine.

i went 50mm to be safe. u only gotta look at the size of the hole inside the housing its tiny and thats why it creeps lol

good luck with it! keep us updated

yeah mate told you they have boost issues

not sure how ur 38mm is going to go but it SHOULD hold boost fine.

i went 50mm to be safe. u only gotta look at the size of the hole inside the housing its tiny and thats why it creeps lol

good luck with it! keep us updated

yeah i had a feeling that was going to happen :wave:

where did you get yours done? how much?

:spank:

well im not from a city but a small town, i got my mech to do it, he didnt charge me much at all, pulled turbo off,welded up inside of turbo,welded all new gate on, and screamer pipe, and tuned it, cost stuff all lol very pleased

  • 4 weeks later...

ok the car is complete and we have the final results :P

and let me tell you it was a pain the back side to complete! after welding on the external gate and fixing boost issues I was only to find 50km later the turbo blew! BAH was that annoying since i've now pulled it off about 4 times!

anyways otomoto replaced it without question, failure was due to a faulty seal i guess it happens :down:

i completed the setup with new braided water lines, gaskets ect so the setup was now solid.

the car was installed with:

(stock rb25det)

kkr480

38mm external wastegate to atmosphere

kkr dump pipe

trust front pipe

fujitsubo exhaust

apexi power fc

splitfire coilpacks

iriway 7 plugs

z32 afm

s15 injectors

bosh 040 pump

hybrid fmic

hybrid ebc

paul at pulse racing did the tune, end result was 250rwkw on 17psi. the turbo performed really well until we took the boost past 15psi then we hit a massive flow issue. it made the same power on 15psi as it did on 17psi. boost started dropping of back down to 14psi and wouldn't want to go anymore which is really strange with an external gate...

main restriction was in the turbo housing and dump pipe. the otomoto dump pipe is just way to restrictive and just doesn't flow anywhere near enough. also inside the exhaust housing there was turbulence due to the internal gate being welded shut and creating a pocket with resulted in loss of power.

the end result however was impressive, 6000nm of torque and 250rwkw was plenty to play around with. if it wasn’t for the flow issues with the turbo design we should of come close to 270rwkw+ and that’s very impressive for a dodgy kkr.

so in the end it would of been probably cheaper to go with a nice garret due to all the setbacks the kkr gave us. but once again happy with the results and so is the owner :thumbsup:

cheers!

:cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...
so the moral of the story is dont buy kkr turbos

defiantly better off with a quality product such as garrett, trust or hks.

kkr is not all that bad but it’s a little laggy for the amount of power you get. i guess it’s as simple as "you get what you pay for" in this case.

if your on a really strict budget and you can get the internal waste gate to hold boost (it's probably impossible) then it’s ok for someone who just can’t afford a garrett.

in the end of it all the owner was happy and so was i.

cheers!

:(

nice write up.

does it feel strong to 7000rpm?

thanks mate.

it’s very strong all the way thru the rev range and rev limiter is at 7200rpm from 3rd gear onwards you really start to feel the top end power if you keep pushing it.

the car feels responsive and easy to drive, just a shame for the flow issue otherwise we could of seen some really nice power somewhere around 270rwkw+ the owner doesn’t want to spend more money to fix this issue.

:(

yeah thats a bit of a bummer.

i got same mods just a bigger 50mm ext gate, i control my boost from the gate spring, has 14psi spring and ive tighten it to hold bout 1.4bar 19psi in top gears.

im not sure on exact power figure as it kept slipping the tyres from camber on my mechs dyno but was around 320rwhp b4 the slipping,

my mates 33 with gt30 and all the goodies has 350rwhp on 14psi and we are pretty even if we have 100-200 rolls maybe even half a length infront...who knows

id love a gt35r though...make same power on 1 bar not 1.4

yeah thats a bit of a bummer.

i got same mods just a bigger 50mm ext gate, i control my boost from the gate spring, has 14psi spring and ive tighten it to hold bout 1.4bar 19psi in top gears.

im not sure on exact power figure as it kept slipping the tyres from camber on my mechs dyno but was around 320rwhp b4 the slipping,

my mates 33 with gt30 and all the goodies has 350rwhp on 14psi and we are pretty even if we have 100-200 rolls maybe even half a length infront...who knows

id love a gt35r though...make same power on 1 bar not 1.4

i bet it feels much nicer to drive with the gt30 in it? he would probably have you for response and off the lights.

and again 14psi is not that much strain on the good old rb25, why didn't he up the boost to around 16-17psi? would of got close to 300kw with the right setup.

i guess kkr is not bad for the price... :banana:

:(

i bet it feels much nicer to drive with the gt30 in it? he would probably have you for response and off the lights.

and again 14psi is not that much strain on the good old rb25, why didn't he up the boost to around 16-17psi? would of got close to 300kw with the right setup.

i guess kkr is not bad for the price... :banana:

:(

yeah man its very smooth power delivery and good response .63 exh .7 front cover..

he wants to eventually run 18psi but having boost creep issues with tial 38mm gate..not holding boost properly once he tries to wind some into it...

yeh kkr arent 2 bad for price...screamer pipe on 19psi sounds animal specially wen u jus pop limiter and makes a huge crack noise haha

yeah man its very smooth power delivery and good response .63 exh .7 front cover..

he wants to eventually run 18psi but having boost creep issues with tial 38mm gate..not holding boost properly once he tries to wind some into it...

yeh kkr arent 2 bad for price...screamer pipe on 19psi sounds animal specially wen u jus pop limiter and makes a huge crack noise haha

hmm thats strange, the 38mm should be just fine for that sort of application, i suggest looking at the ebc before anything els.

yeah the screamer is really nice, i set one up on this setup and it sounds awesome :(

:banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...