Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

timing belt comes off when your water pump is done, there is a sequence you need to do in order to keep the timing in relation to each other including, CAS, both cams and crank timing.....also belt needs to be a specific tooth number apart from each other.....you need someone to put it all back together properly

EDIT:

also static timing must be set up with the CAS. 15 degree's TDC

Edited by Ryanrb25

hey mate you should be able to get one of the boys to come over to help you,only fools pay someone else to do it, except when specialised tools are needed, try to find info and someone to help 1st(unless you cant be bothered or dont have time),cant find info download manual from ns.com or buy one,then if you cant do it pay someone.

Nothing is better than doing it yourself,then that way you understand your car and what you can talk about with others,rather than be like most who fake what they talk about.

screw that - when it comes to anything to do with timing belts, ALWAYS get a professional to do it. If you have been smacking valves on pistons, even if just when turning it over trying to start it, then it is game over big time. You only have to be a few teeth out for this to happen.

Done gazillions of them. hehe. Have all the correct tools aswell.

done charge much either. I wouldn't do it unless i was competent. Just trying to help SAUer's out. If i can't do it then i can recommend a place who can.

:banana:

Edited by Ryanrb25
13 11 11 = RAA!

I once had an old Mini, gave it a service, and pulled the dizzy apart, got stuck and couldnt start the thing afterwards. The bloke got it going again. Might as well get some service for my annual membership!

agreed, if you got it, flaunt it.

yeh dont let ryan touch ur car :banana:

he did my 100thou service... very good.... love ur work bro!

thanks man

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...