Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, well, well , Hhhmmmmmmmm. after a non eventful ride day with Abo bob at OP GP 2 weeks ago, I thought I would improve my riding capabilities at the super bike school. Today on my 4th session at Eastern creek, I decided to drop the wife’s bike at turn 7. I was close to the ground when the front tyre let go so the impact was minimal. All I can remember is diving into turn 6 and thinking WHAT WAS THAT as I watch the bike slide away from me at a great rate of knots. As I was sliding I realised I was laying on a race track and chose to stand up only to realise I was still moving so I had to run to avoid a face plant. According to the instructor who was following me, I did not do anything wrong, it just looks like I over cooked the tyre and it just let go on the apex. The wife took the ordeal fairly well, she was more pi$$ed about missing the rest of the day then the damage to the bike.

Some pics

Although it was dropped at about 80-90km/hr a 2nd hand mirror and rear fairing parts are under $300 in total. The scratches we will have to live with.

Cant wait for the next one!

post-42-1223544507_thumb.jpg

post-42-1223544550_thumb.jpg

post-42-1223544668_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/239532-how-to-drop-a-bike-101/
Share on other sites

If you saved the broken peices there easy enough to get plastic welded together again makes for a cheaper repair and most places do a good job .A little slide in leathers is pretty easy but dont try it in jeans it hurts

you look pretty cute in that leather unitard mate. good to see you didn't damage your heiny too much either. just a light pounding which is I guess about par for the course with you. greddy.gif

you are not off the bike enough, CoG is to high, meaning you are leaning the bike over too far, that's why it let go, you need to get that ass of the seat such that your oppo cheek is just on the inner edge and you should have your head shoulders off as if you are peering around a door frame.....

get a new instructor if he told you everything was sweet!

OPTION 1;OGGY KNOBS and a aftermarket fairing for track days or remove it altogether, itll save on some $$

OPTION 2; stop throwing it away

I would go with option 1 because no matter how hard i try option 2 doesnt really work for me.

LOL

Good to hear there's not too much damage mate :)

After losing the front at speed, bet that doesn't inspire confidence haha.. I bet you'll take it easy as on teh street now (well I would!)

I can't wait to get out there...

Edited by TommO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...