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The turbo you have should do that.

So just rebuild it, problem solved. If you CANT make that power something isnt right with the setup.

The 3071 is the perfect choice!

Thats exactly why Im considering a new turbo, I have had 3 different dyno tunes done on three different dynos and each time the most power it has put down is 240rwkw... It seems that it wont make any more.

To be completely honest I have no idea what my best option is - rebuild or replace? :P

however again, its a dumb turbo choice as is a GT3040

Whats wrong with a gt3040???? I have one and its great!!!! I'm still running under 10spsi but the previous owner was making around 260rwkw safely. With the 0.62 rear it startrs making boost at just over 2000rpm and full boost by 2700. I havent been in too many other skylines but this combination makes a great daily car as i have a heap of low and mid range to play with.

yeah mine is externally gated...

i was thinking about it on the way home from work and i reckon u should stick with a GT30 .84 better response and your not after big numbers...

The only reason i went GT35 is i'm going to do a 3-3.4ltr block and i didn't wanna buy 2 turbos...

Id say a HKS GT3037 with a 0.68 rear full bolt on kit, however i just checked the price landed in aus and there now $5G :S so pass on that one!. least i know ill probably get what i paid for mine back when i go to sell it in a couple of months!

What I'd do if it was me .

1) Remove the turbo and split the housings off the cartridge . The compressor wheel's obviously had the Richard but the rest may be quite ok , need to check the turbine blades and the shaft to see if it's bent .

If the damage is terminal but the housings are Ok it may well be fixed with a new cartridge .

2) Ask yourself if you were satisfied with the performance (not the dyno numbers) .

The real GT3071R (CHRA No 700177-23) has nudged 440 Hp though that was with an appropriate twin scroll turbine housing on a ported and aftermarket cam'd SR20 in the US . My point is that that turbine and compressor combination is capable of significantly more than 320 Hp (240 Kw) but it likes the manifold and turbine housing to be non restrictive .

Assuming you were using a Garrett GT30 turbine housing I'd be looking at the engine from air filter to exhaust tip for possible restrictions . All too often it's not the dryer thats the problem .

A .

if its only the compressor wheels that is stuffed then it should only cost you about $500 to rebuild at max. im getting a high flow rebuilt at the moment, new steel compressor wheel, machine out stock exhaust housing to fit high flow, machine exhaust face flat and new seals for $575

Are you sure its a "true" one?

Yes its definitely a real Garret 3071R, I bought it new from GCG about 2 years ago and I still have the box and receipt.

Hi Mick,

I would suggest the GT3076 .63

Great response, and will see 270rwkw at around 16psi.

I saw a touch under 300rwkw with the .82 version. Though my engine is extensively modified.

I am seriously considering the GT3076 now, thanks ;)

What I'd do if it was me .

1) Remove the turbo and split the housings off the cartridge . The compressor wheel's obviously had the Richard but the rest may be quite ok , need to check the turbine blades and the shaft to see if it's bent .

If the damage is terminal but the housings are Ok it may well be fixed with a new cartridge .

2) Ask yourself if you were satisfied with the performance (not the dyno numbers) .

The real GT3071R (CHRA No 700177-23) has nudged 440 Hp though that was with an appropriate twin scroll turbine housing on a ported and aftermarket cam'd SR20 in the US . My point is that that turbine and compressor combination is capable of significantly more than 320 Hp (240 Kw) but it likes the manifold and turbine housing to be non restrictive .

Assuming you were using a Garrett GT30 turbine housing I'd be looking at the engine from air filter to exhaust tip for possible restrictions . All too often it's not the dryer thats the problem .

A .

I have sent the turbo off to GCG to get a quote for the rebuild and they have told me that the compressor wheel needs replacing (obviously), the housing needs machining, the wastegate needs replacing (jammed shut) and the usual re-balance seals etc... All up almost $1500.00 :)

I have had multiple workshops have a go at extracting more power from it but each time I get the same (or very similar) result. There may be a restriction somewhere but I have been told many times that the 3071 is just to small to make more power.

Thanks for the info :(

I am running a true GT3071R but with ext gate and i have made 260 rwkw on 13 psi and the engine sh1t it in, so much more if you wanted to lean on it and add more boost. All i am considering on doing is adding a 0.82 rear hsg so it will make more torque and rev to 8000 rpm. Only real thing i have different other than my ext gate and tune is a set of HKS cams.

The only reason i did not go with the genuine HKS GT2835 Pro S kit is the cost. But some times i wish i had gone with the full kit, very professional and super hi quality. I would regard it as the best low mt turbo set up on a std displacement RB25.

  • 4 weeks later...

I really would agree with disco and Nismoid. The turbo you have is good enough for 260 or 280 with cams. The only down side is the wrong choice of turbine housing. .63 is just too small. Mine is the .82 genuine 3071 with 60mm turbine wheel and 264 is what it makes. Yes, the 3076 is even better from what I have read but see if you can find a .82 housing and swap it over. Of course if you get the waste gate welded and go with a 44mm external that would be even better. And I know most will agree with me this combiation will give you all you need. The compressor is well cabable in the 71mm .50A/R form to flow 400hp so the choice is there. But yes, the 3076 is the best option as it will just be a case of removing the old and replacing with new.

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