Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommend Me A New Turbo.

Bullet32

By Bullet32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The turbo you have should do that.

So just rebuild it, problem solved. If you CANT make that power something isnt right with the setup.

The 3071 is the perfect choice!

Thats exactly why Im considering a new turbo, I have had 3 different dyno tunes done on three different dynos and each time the most power it has put down is 240rwkw... It seems that it wont make any more.

To be completely honest I have no idea what my best option is - rebuild or replace? :P

Bond Proficient

Bond

Posted
Posted
however again, its a dumb turbo choice as is a GT3040

Whats wrong with a gt3040???? I have one and its great!!!! I'm still running under 10spsi but the previous owner was making around 260rwkw safely. With the 0.62 rear it startrs making boost at just over 2000rpm and full boost by 2700. I havent been in too many other skylines but this combination makes a great daily car as i have a heap of low and mid range to play with.

axe s Experienced

axe s

Posted
Posted

yeah mine is externally gated...

i was thinking about it on the way home from work and i reckon u should stick with a GT30 .84 better response and your not after big numbers...

The only reason i went GT35 is i'm going to do a 3-3.4ltr block and i didn't wanna buy 2 turbos...

SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
Posted

Id say a HKS GT3037 with a 0.68 rear full bolt on kit, however i just checked the price landed in aus and there now $5G :S so pass on that one!. least i know ill probably get what i paid for mine back when i go to sell it in a couple of months!

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

What I'd do if it was me .

1) Remove the turbo and split the housings off the cartridge . The compressor wheel's obviously had the Richard but the rest may be quite ok , need to check the turbine blades and the shaft to see if it's bent .

If the damage is terminal but the housings are Ok it may well be fixed with a new cartridge .

2) Ask yourself if you were satisfied with the performance (not the dyno numbers) .

The real GT3071R (CHRA No 700177-23) has nudged 440 Hp though that was with an appropriate twin scroll turbine housing on a ported and aftermarket cam'd SR20 in the US . My point is that that turbine and compressor combination is capable of significantly more than 320 Hp (240 Kw) but it likes the manifold and turbine housing to be non restrictive .

Assuming you were using a Garrett GT30 turbine housing I'd be looking at the engine from air filter to exhaust tip for possible restrictions . All too often it's not the dryer thats the problem .

A .

Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
Posted

if its only the compressor wheels that is stuffed then it should only cost you about $500 to rebuild at max. im getting a high flow rebuilt at the moment, new steel compressor wheel, machine out stock exhaust housing to fit high flow, machine exhaust face flat and new seals for $575

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Are you sure its a "true" one?

Yes its definitely a real Garret 3071R, I bought it new from GCG about 2 years ago and I still have the box and receipt.

Hi Mick,

I would suggest the GT3076 .63

Great response, and will see 270rwkw at around 16psi.

I saw a touch under 300rwkw with the .82 version. Though my engine is extensively modified.

I am seriously considering the GT3076 now, thanks ;)

What I'd do if it was me .

1) Remove the turbo and split the housings off the cartridge . The compressor wheel's obviously had the Richard but the rest may be quite ok , need to check the turbine blades and the shaft to see if it's bent .

If the damage is terminal but the housings are Ok it may well be fixed with a new cartridge .

2) Ask yourself if you were satisfied with the performance (not the dyno numbers) .

The real GT3071R (CHRA No 700177-23) has nudged 440 Hp though that was with an appropriate twin scroll turbine housing on a ported and aftermarket cam'd SR20 in the US . My point is that that turbine and compressor combination is capable of significantly more than 320 Hp (240 Kw) but it likes the manifold and turbine housing to be non restrictive .

Assuming you were using a Garrett GT30 turbine housing I'd be looking at the engine from air filter to exhaust tip for possible restrictions . All too often it's not the dryer thats the problem .

A .

I have sent the turbo off to GCG to get a quote for the rebuild and they have told me that the compressor wheel needs replacing (obviously), the housing needs machining, the wastegate needs replacing (jammed shut) and the usual re-balance seals etc... All up almost $1500.00 :)

I have had multiple workshops have a go at extracting more power from it but each time I get the same (or very similar) result. There may be a restriction somewhere but I have been told many times that the 3071 is just to small to make more power.

Thanks for the info :(

BOZ22N Grand Master

BOZ22N

Posted
Posted

I am running a true GT3071R but with ext gate and i have made 260 rwkw on 13 psi and the engine sh1t it in, so much more if you wanted to lean on it and add more boost. All i am considering on doing is adding a 0.82 rear hsg so it will make more torque and rev to 8000 rpm. Only real thing i have different other than my ext gate and tune is a set of HKS cams.

The only reason i did not go with the genuine HKS GT2835 Pro S kit is the cost. But some times i wish i had gone with the full kit, very professional and super hi quality. I would regard it as the best low mt turbo set up on a std displacement RB25.

  • 4 weeks later...
skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

I really would agree with disco and Nismoid. The turbo you have is good enough for 260 or 280 with cams. The only down side is the wrong choice of turbine housing. .63 is just too small. Mine is the .82 genuine 3071 with 60mm turbine wheel and 264 is what it makes. Yes, the 3076 is even better from what I have read but see if you can find a .82 housing and swap it over. Of course if you get the waste gate welded and go with a 44mm external that would be even better. And I know most will agree with me this combiation will give you all you need. The compressor is well cabable in the 71mm .50A/R form to flow 400hp so the choice is there. But yes, the 3076 is the best option as it will just be a case of removing the old and replacing with new.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...