Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thay work like window tint you spay the back with soapy warter

i took mine to a tint shop he said was the worst job hes had to

do thay have a couple of creases in them but you have to look

close

with the head light you have the option not to cover the whole light

i think ill uncover the head light and the high beam light and no only

have the v35

Cool, that is what I thought, shit it must be pretty hard to do.

Do the tailights have any raised lettering or logo's on the exterior. That is the first part that will start to bubble.

With a lot of patience, you could get it pretty good, which is what yours look like!

The last picture looks like a white 350GT, that is why I thought you had 2... Can not believe that is a Silver one!

yeah he said he dosent want to see or hear of one again to hard

i think the bigest problem is that its so thin and that made it hard

to work over the curves of the lights

yeah it does look white very over cast day here to day and the

went to the panelbeaters on monday for a good buff very shinny

now

i think the tail lightn are smooth if there is raised bits they are not

to big

took the center parts out of the head light looks much better now

  • 4 weeks later...

For those interested, the part number on the box for the new updated bulge clear indicators are B61F0-CM40A (bulge) vs B61F0-AM900 (non-bulge).

Would be interesting to see if there are any large price differences between the 2. I got mine (bulge) imported directly from Nissan Japan... so couldn't say how much Nissan AU would charge.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...