Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Nathan, I got it sorted, what I thought was the year was just the engine capacity. I was told it was the year but didn't look close enough. I did FAST it and that matches the 95/07 build date I found.

Damo I just like the looks of them. Not sure how/if it'll effect driving or vision, but I love the looks of them, as long as they're the proper ones (and not just the simple fold over type).

Not like you can see much, but I know there are some dodgy ones, I like this kind:

4392319.jpg

haha, well ok, thats different, usually for old people who get too hot when its raining and dont want their interior all wet.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think it derived from the "JDM modders" over from the Honda groups, aus delivered Hondas dont get some stuff but Japan does; if its factory fitted over in Japan its zomg JDM must have it! Its one of those little things that sets off the car when accumulated - window visors, foglamps, indicators, headlights, tail lights, antennaes and so forth...

Mine came with window visors... GG :P

should have said something in the forums when you got it haha, i just got my r33 on the road on thursday, so was doing much the same (driving) spent quite a bit on fuel, don't mind saying haha.

either way looks nice and clean mate, good buy

Edited by d--

Yeah Daniel too busy driving it around and getting used to it, mainly learning manual. Picking up on the small things which results in a smoother drive and less injury to the neck (or spillage of the drinks haha).

I went to get a haircut today only to find the barber shut, so instead of going straight home decided to go for a bit of a drive along the beach between seacliff and Jetty road Birghton before going home, just for the enjoyment.

Yeah Daniel too busy driving it around and getting used to it, mainly learning manual. Picking up on the small things which results in a smoother drive and less injury to the neck (or spillage of the drinks haha).

I went to get a haircut today only to find the barber shut, so instead of going straight home decided to go for a bit of a drive along the beach between seacliff and Jetty road Birghton before going home, just for the enjoyment.

a good place to go for a drive thats not too far out is head up to blackwood and then just follow main road out down past belair through windy point, drive as hard as you feel safe with and just go for a nice downhill drive, windy roads but still a great drive. (it's where i'll be tonight :dry:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...