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One thing I've learned about car stuff is if it does the job, there's no sense in upgrading.

Royal Purple may be the best, but if your box and diff are fine with Redline, what are you actually paying for?

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I have a hot4's engine oil test, where they compare dyno figures with different oils, same car, same day, same temperatures.

The two best oils were...mobil1 which gave as far as i remember about 6% over the control oil,

.............but then...they tried royal purple, and it was unbelievable!! It was some crazy figure like 10-11% power gain over the control oil!!

So if you can afford it, try it, i would.

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Yeah, its the Mobil Super Syn formula. About time it came out. Its been in the US for over 1 1/2 years.... And RP is a bit overhyped IMO. It doesnt show anything special in UOAs (Used Oil Analysis) in various cars compared to other Synths out there.. But if it floats your boat.. hehe

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I don't know if you guys realise, but this "extra power" from changing oil has to come from somewhere. While viscosity will play a part in the velocity of the reciprocating parts and limit/affect power production, i would think that the primary difference is that the oils that produce more power are less wear tollerant; ie while they are still protecting your engine, they are more prone to wear. Consider that a thicker oil will provided better protection, but will rob power; by the same token a thinner oil will promote the engine to spin more easily but all thing equal it will not protect as well.

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Higher viscosity does NOT equal better lubrication unless you're running extreme type engines (ie, 1000hp+ drag cars). For most of our cars, if the rings and valves are still good, a 30 or 40 weight oil is good enough. Any thicker and you lose power for no real gain.

The benefits of thicker oil in normal cars appear when your rings start to get a little worn, and the thicker oil will help seal the gaps a little better so you don't burn as much.

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