Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just thought I'd clarify for you guys wanting to block bov the coke can does the job perfecty. I did it today just for Shit and giggles and took me a whole 15 min just make sure you trace the bottom of bov on can and cut around the trace place cut out in between bov and the intake pipe mount Put back together and vwallahh you have flutter tutututu.

Btw this was performed on a standard bov and with a k&n pod filter.

Edited by Vlasi

Hahahahaha that's funny as madaz. skyhi its short for a blow off valve it is a valve that allows boost pressure leave your turbo system also makes A tsuuuuuu sound with standard bov and pod filter and you can get after market bov that makes a more defined tsuuuu sound

also makes A tsuuuuuu sound with standard bov and pod filter and you can get after market bov that makes a more defined tsuuuu sound

so, this tsuuuu sound, what does it do? like, i see the original bov has more u's after it therefore its a longer kind of sound right?

Edited by SkyHi_33

Some how this trick saved my a** tonight when the cops were doing their "part 2" at a RBT tonight. They were after a atmo BOV and they watched it while they got me to rev the hell out of the engine. All they heard was tsuuuuuuu from the turbo, then they were like that's ok!

Sometimes i feel sorry for them as they obviously did not have a clue, twice they looked over the engine bay before they asked "Where is the Blow off valve?"

My god they over looked the boost controller and solenoid, FMIC, POD, Exhaust, rim spacers, etc. Makes me think i could of had a high mount turbo and NOS kit and they still would just be after a BOV.

Madaz, they were pretty good about the whole thing but i remembered what i read sometime ago about these things. Which was not to offer too much info about anything in or on the car.

So that was you scandyflick out the front of Mayne Pharma that time? Its on the camera's man and she was actually 45!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...