Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Raising The Psi

dreamaaa
 Share

Recommended Posts

dreamaaa Enthusiast

dreamaaa

Posted
Posted

I was wondering what psi a stock r34 gt-t runs at? im guessing around 8?

also what mods would i have to install to run it safely at around 16psi on the street?

im looking at spending just under 20k on the car. and then atleast 10k on the car straight up, ofcourse ill still be spending more as the time goes by though.

Also for the guys that 'really' know what they are talking about would you be able to list the brands with the products. that you have had experience on your cars?

Thanks alot, looking forward on hearing your answers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241033-r34-raising-the-psi/
Share on other sites
satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

For $10K, you'd be looking at the following:

1) A very small list of brand new parts, or

2) A very long list of second hand parts

Option 1) might not see you there...

Turbo Kit - $2.5-3.0K

FMIC - $500-$1,000

Exhaust - $1,000

EBC - $300-$1,000

ECU - $800 - $???

Injectors - $800-$1,000

Fuel Pump - $300-$600

Air Intake - $200

* Above prices are pretty indicative depending on how fussy you are and ultimately what you want to do... parts alone you're looking at $7k - $10K, then you have to factor in labour n tuning etc... not to mention all the SMALL bits n bobs that nobody ever seems to factor in (nuts, bolts, washers, fluids, zipties, oils etc. etc.)

Option 2) you'll get there... just need patience and a keen eye when looking for 2nd hand goodies!

Personally, started off with Option 2) for a few things - was only 19 then so didn't really have a choice. But yeah, slowly replaced everything with brand new items as finances got better... Now my 34 is an freak of nature :)

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
Posted
I was wondering what psi a stock r34 gt-t runs at? im guessing around 8?

also what mods would i have to install to run it safely at around 16psi on the street?

im looking at spending just under 20k on the car. and then atleast 10k on the car straight up, ofcourse ill still be spending more as the time goes by though.

Also for the guys that 'really' know what they are talking about would you be able to list the brands with the products. that you have had experience on your cars?

Thanks alot, looking forward on hearing your answers!

stock it runs 2 stage boost, 5psi up to 4500rpm, then 7psi to redline

dreamaaa Enthusiast

dreamaaa

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks for the help guys.

hmm i was hoping i could get to atleast 14-16 without new fuel pump and injectors ehhe. my mates xr6 runs 14psi with intercooler and new turbo+ exhaust. also mates 180sx runs at 12 with the same mods.

guess ill need an engineers slip anyway with the other mods on right?

Edited by dreamaaa
joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

16 psi on an xr6 turbo is very differet to 16 psi on a stock r34 turbo... or any other turbo for that matter...

psi = pounds PER SQUARE INCH... hence if turbo's are different sizes...well you get the pic...

you cannot raise the boost to 16 psi without a turbo upgrade... well... you CAN... but you WILL break your turbo and possibly your motor. the skyline rb25 turbo's have ceramic exhaust wheels and they will let go if pushed too hard.

if you tell us what the car is going to be used for, your goals and most importantly your budget, then we can help :/

dreamaaa Enthusiast

dreamaaa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes i know that....

i just want strong car for street and also for cruising.

how much psi could i safely raise it too without a fuel pump?

but if i installed:

New Turbo(not sure which size) they come stock with a t25 or 28?

FMIC

Exhaust

EBC

ECU

Injectors

Air Intake

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted
Some might say you'll get away with 250rwkw with a fpr, but i'd be inclined to get a new pump at that stage.

I've heard some say that a stock turbo can get up to 250rwkw too :P

If you're spending all that money, just spend the extra and get a fuel pump. Better than your engine leaning out.

My opinion is that you'd be better off spending the money on a fuel pump rather than a FPR. At the end of the day, you can't change THAT MUCH with a FPR, get a fuel pump, get an ECU - and get it done properly.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

so say your happy with 225rwkw... (decent power for a streeter, esp with a diet, although i have a feeling you'll be throwing in 780 subs + amps) then all you could get away with just a highflow turbo, SAFC, cheapass fmic, bleed valve, exhaust and your clutch might hold for a while too... probably cheapest option really...

for any more power your gonna have to add injectors, fuel pump, afm, real ECU, clutch, better FMIC, EBC (not needed but worth it)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • Kinkstaah
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • Kinkstaah
      First time Skyline owner

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • Kinkstaah
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...