Jump to content
SAU Community

The Series 2 Autech 260rs Into The Stock Series 1 Rs4 Build

msports180

By msports180,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK we got the RS4 into the shed today. Got it up in the air and started undoing everything on it. Cradle and engine ready to come out. Most of the interior is stripped just sitting in the car. So tommorow will get engine out and start prepping for paint.

How it looked this morning:

01112008003.jpg

01112008001.jpg

01112008004.jpg

And cory (aka snapper) turned up today to get some parts, damn it looked nice:

01112008.jpg

Will get some more pics up 2moro of it gutted.

msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Had a huge day today, just finished now sooo rooted.

Got engine out and bay ready for paint. Got rear cradles swapped. Most of the interior swap done, luckily the looms were the same going down towards the back of the car so just swapped the front loom over. Dash is back in, all the console etc is in, series 2 steering wheel is in. Got the door jams painted.

Prepped the outside of the car for the paint for 2moro.

Had four people working on it all day.

So 2moro will paint the bay and outside of the car and then bolt all the doors back on and start re-assembling the engine bay.

Not far now!!

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted

nice work mate, u dont mess around at all, wish i had 4 people workin on mine at once lol, i just about got mine ready to, cant wait to get it out and daily drive it :laugh: I just got exhuast, wastegate and slightly modify the cooler pipes and its ready to run.

how come u packed up tonight? :laugh: its only 8pm plenty of hours left in the day :P

msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
  • Author
Posted
nice work mate, u dont mess around at all, wish i had 4 people workin on mine at once lol, i just about got mine ready to, cant wait to get it out and daily drive it :) I just got exhuast, wastegate and slightly modify the cooler pipes and its ready to run.

how come u packed up tonight? :D its only 8pm plenty of hours left in the day :)

2 mechanics aswell!! hehe

geez man u dont mess around either tho, getting through it fast.

once it gets to about 5pm the beers come out and things deteriorate rapidly...

  • 2 weeks later...
unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted

he was finished about a week ago or more, hes too slack to post pics because hes driving it instead haha :P i think he should come round my place and finish my car off too so i can drive mine as well, bloody greedy stagea owners only helping themselves :)

msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
  • Author
Posted
he was finished about a week ago or more, hes too slack to post pics because hes driving it instead haha :D i think he should come round my place and finish my car off too so i can drive mine as well, bloody greedy stagea owners only helping themselves ;)

HAHA yeah i been to slack, back at work to now. Havnt even got photo's onto my computer yet.

Yes its done, wasnt that hard, just alot to do. Got it all painted came out OK, pearl dosnt match exactly but meh. Just got a few nigly things to fix now, 4WD light stays on, has a bearing sounding noise from the front, brakes need another bleed, handbrake no existent (needs new shoes i think), borrowed a mine's ecu to use till i can get the PFC tuned, idles at 1400rpm ish and the AIC is all the way in allready. Just cut the firewall section out for the booster and laid it over the original fire wall and used bulk silicon, looks OK seen we painted the bay hides it well. Everything else bolted up, had to trim alot obviousley for piping etc, and drill a few holes but wasnt hard.

Took me a solid day to get the whole engine bay and front end back together, like headlights, reo, FMIC, bov return pipe etc, wiring, abs, brake line's/master cylinder etc. Didnt scratch the fresh paint, was being so carefull!!

Then another day to get motor in and everything plumbed up to it, wiring plugged in as we used the autech loom. (scratched the fresh paint on the rad support :( )

Put all the doors on and rest of the kit (oh by the way rear bars are a bastard to get off!!!).

Took a week to reassemble it basically. Had it running friday last week. And havnt stopped driving it!! haha. I got called back to work early from my holidays so i drove it there (100km trip) on sunday night to test out the HID's :D drove very nicely even tho i was shitting bout hitting a roo.

Will try and get some pics up soon.

And whats it like to drive?? Noice!! Feels very strong, can only rev it to 4k atm due to being run in and needing a tune but allready feels quick. Ended up having NISMO suspension in it not HKS coilovers as i was told, also had a full tune length stainless front pipe and front cusco camber arms, i allready had some rear cusco's for it. Handles very nicley for snow tyres. Very nice ride, firm but still comfy. Im going on a limb here (im also biased) but i think it handles better then my wifes R34 sedan *prepares couch to sleep on*

So yeah, its all done and im happy. Only took 12months to finally happen...

Brad u pay for fuel and im there.

lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted
he liked series 1 stageas better so decided to do a full conversion as the s1 grille and lights are nicer :)

i thought it was because it failed compliance due to rust on the autech. man it must suck sometimes to be in oz . nearly everything that gets imported here gets new disk rotors anyway (although these ones were extremely bad) and we all saw how bad the rust on the sway bar is . bad enough to write off the whole car . who ever made that call should be shot .

good thread anyway . if its not too much to ask could you post up a pic of where the pipe from the I/C to the plenum goes through the body ?

msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
  • Author
Posted
he liked series 1 stageas better so decided to do a full conversion as the s1 grille and lights are nicer :)

haha yeah right. I prefer the S2... allthough for the ute were gonna do S1 for sure.

Yeah was the rust in the autech, complience guys made the call...

Ive got a heap of photo's of it to up load when i get a chance, havnt had time lately.

On a side note my power FC turned up today... so now i can get it tuned at last.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • GTSBoy
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Manur33
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...