Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

put the pod in the airbox. cut a hole in the bottom of airbox and have a pipe (preferably black) from pod, through hole to compressor.

so u mean having a pipe under it for air? what if you just leave a hole with no pipe?

keep the airbox in place and the piping that feeds it. get rid of the piping from the airbox to the compressor. cut a hole in the bottom of the airbox. put the pod in the airbox. a black pipe from the pod down through the hole in the bottom of the airbox to the compressor.

if you have no pipe then there will be no air going through the pod and your compressor will be ingesting unfiltered air...

^^ not sure what you're talking about. if he has a pod in place, the air wont be unfiltered. but yes. you will benefit from a cold air feed. and you certainly dont have to mess with the compressor side of things.

have a look through the tutorials section. theres a few threads in there about cold air intakes / boxes

here's one of them

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cai-Box-t208789.html

Edited by Munkyb0y

Simply put - No chance.

Cops and EPA aren't stupid, they know what the factory airbox looks like, you'll never get something made that looks like it for a reasonable amount of money. You'll get pinned everytime for the 1x intake mod rule

ahhh k, i just havent seen the stock air boxes thats why im not sure with the pipe and stuff leading out of it. u noe how much it would be to buy a 2nd hand air box

yeah but he'll get done for the airbox or the front mount either way.....

best bet is put orginal air box,,,, just jap stealth front mount and paint it all black

there in the trader zone.....

what if you just leave a hole with no pipe?

pod with no pipe pod will fall out hole. pipe needs pod on one end inside standard airbox and the other end attached to the compressor inlet. the pod will be concealed inside the airbox.

yeah dats the type of frount mount im planning to get. bt my question was can i put a pod in a stock airbox so it looks lyk stok air filter

question remains...

Why keep the pod at all if your going to put it inside a chopped airbox?

If its for sound, forget that, and it'll be boxed up so it wont sound the same

If for performance, forget that, a good airbox with decent panel filter will beat a pod without proper CAI everyday

:cheers:

would it possible to keep the pod attached to the afm and sumhow get box to sit over it without acatly having to have the box connected to the afm

Cold Airbox Assembly.

post-46584-1224675385_thumb.jpg

Or just upgrade your panel filter to a high flow one

have you looked in your engine bay?

you got buckleys unless you relocate the filter to near where the stock I/C was in the front bar

Cold Airbox Assembly.

post-46584-1224675385_thumb.jpg

Or just upgrade your panel filter to a high flow one

still illegal :D

What do you guys think if I get that stealth just jap cooler paint it blak and put blak mesh in the front bar in the opening. I rekon that would be prety hard to see especialy at night and also considering the cooler uses the stock pipes. I dont want to lose my pod cause to me its not a turbo unless i dont have that sucking noise and flutter. what u guys think?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...