Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just came across these and am very likely buying them. 18 x 10 and they are fitted to this R32 GTR with no guard rolling or camber. So it would seem that the success of fitting this size is down to the car set up and the rim, especially the offset. So it can be done.

I'm still gunna get me some TE37s......(drool).

post-46395-1224804509_thumb.jpg

post-46395-1224804883_thumb.jpg

the BBS are good, but they don't have the most caliper clearance out there. make sure they will fit over big brakes if you are running APs with 355mm rotors. I have BBS LMs as road wheels on my grey 32 and they only just clear R34 brembos I have on there. for track I use Weds TC-05s or my Enkei NT03s. both forged, light and good brake clearance.

Yeah, thanks BB. I've measured from the face of the rotor to the inside of the spokes and we've got about 72mm, and 65 is a generous dimension for this caliper (so I'm told). The car I did this on, was running Alcons on a 355 or 365mm rotor, so hopefully OK.

Just came across these and am very likely buying them. 18 x 10 and they are fitted to this R32 GTR with no guard rolling or camber. So it would seem that the success of fitting this size is down to the car set up and the rim, especially the offset. So it can be done.

I'm still gunna get me some TE37s......(drool).

Just to ensure I'm not guilty of spreading misinformation, I've just visited this car and the guards are lipped, but no camber. I'll take my car with no lipping to the rims on Monday and report back about how they fit. Seems 10" is getting on the wide side but with some jiggling they can be made to fit. Sorry for the bum steer y'all.

Yup, 9" BBS LM's with a +20 offset = no problems clearing Alcon 6 piston calipers with 365 rotor

:/ that shut me up! I have the 9inch +20 too and they were quite close even on my old stock 32 set-up, but I guess the alcons don't protrude much more than stockies. carry on. :)

the BBS are good, but they don't have the most caliper clearance out there. make sure they will fit over big brakes if you are running APs with 355mm rotors. I have BBS LMs as road wheels on my grey 32 and they only just clear R34 brembos I have on there. for track I use Weds TC-05s or my Enkei NT03s. both forged, light and good brake clearance.

FYI this car has R34 Brembos and clear well. My brake guy said the AP CP5555 caliper has a similar lateral dimension so same should be true for them too.

Just to ensure I'm not guilty of spreading misinformation, I've just visited this car and the guards are lipped, but no camber. I'll take my car with no lipping to the rims on Monday and report back about how they fit. Seems 10" is getting on the wide side but with some jiggling they can be made to fit. Sorry for the bum steer y'all.

I've trial fitted these BBS LM 18 x 10 and to me they don't fit. Just a smidge too wide. With my suspension settings I suspect they might have cleared the guards under compression (though hard to tell as it was car park driven only), but they sat a poofteenth proud of the rear guard and just looked too big. Full lock either direction was fine too. A real pity as these are beautiful rims. I guess as they fit the purple 32 they can be made to fit with some work. Purple GTR is for sale FYI.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...