Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i still got the compliance brake pads in my r33... and they need a bleed anyway.. so i was going to change the brake pads and bleed at the same time.

So i was wondering have any of you guys used this brake pads? Are they any good? How much did you pay for them? Ive always used bendix in the past and i trust their products... i would prefer to just get reviews on that brake pad... but other suggestions on other brands are more then welcome...

and yes ive read the brake pad thread.. but im more after specific information on the Bendix SRT

Cheers,

Brendan

O btw here is the link to the website

http://performance.bendix.com.au/StreetRoadTrack.aspx

Edited by br3ndan

Hopefully someone who's tried them will post up what they're like and what they paid for them cause I'm curious to know what they're worth. I've seen their performance specs, and know what else with comparable performance is on the market and at what cost, but in typical Bendix fashion I'm not expecting them to come even close on price. Looking forward to seeing if anyone has used them though... Although (won't be a dramas for Skylines) I know the SRT range is very limited in application.

Edited by jetpilot1986

hey, i just changed my front pads on 33 last nit..lol

and i had compliance brake pads too.... :)

i just used bendix ultimates(purple box)

and now she brakes like a dream...

i seriously had like 5-6mm left on my front pads before..

but i could feel that the pads i had wernt doing der the job as they wer a year ago..

it felt sloppy..and i had gen. pads!!!!

and i just bleeded my brakes lik 2 weeks ago..to hope to fix the problem abit..

but no good..

so in the end just ended up getting new pads:)

well from wat i heard..trade price anyways are around...

bendix gct - $50-60

bendix ultimates - $ 100-$120

Ferodo Excel - $60-80

Ferodo DS3000 - ?????

EBC Greenstuff - $200-250

EBC Redstuff - ??

Endless - ??

Lucus - ??

so what i heard lucus is the best money for valve..

but bendix ulitmates are pretty good and are cheap..

but everyone got der own opinion...

hope this helps...

Edited by bumble_bee

If ya going to do track days go for the project mus they are great except they squeak real loud to lol but when there hot lookout pull you up on a dime.

They arent cheap either $640. I swear by them. Otherwise ferodos for street use are good. Try & stay away from bendix had them yes they work but after using ferodos & projects wouldnt go back.

thanks for the info guys

Still no personal use on the bendix SRT?

Ultis are good, i use them in my daily. but was after something a bit more serious..

my friend just bought Ferodo for his 180sx? but they seem a bit cheap? he only paid 60 bucks ? Or did he just buy the lower end of them?

bumble_bee: Are you able to give me part numbers for the Front and rear bendix ulti? Thats assuming your running a r33 gts t?

Edited by br3ndan
thanks for the info guys

Still no personal use on the bendix SRT?

Ultis are good, i use them in my daily. but was after something a bit more serious..

my friend just bought Ferodo for his 180sx? but they seem a bit cheap? he only paid 60 bucks ? Or did he just buy the lower end of them?

bumble_bee: Are you able to give me part numbers for the Front and rear bendix ulti? Thats assuming your running a r33 gts t?

the fronts i know are DB1170ULI or is it just UL?

dont pay more than $120 here in perth..

i payed 100incl..but that was trade..

try " Perth Brake Parts" there in welshpool..ask for michael..9451-9455

he drives a vl turbo...so he's pretty the best guy to talk to down der..

he can answer ur questions about most different types of brands aswel...

umm i think they wanted $115 or was it $120 for em..which is alrit..

but ring around..like ur local repco store and brake store..and c wat they sell em for too... :D

the part numbers are on the bendix website..but theres no GTST!!????

i was like wat the f%$K????

but its the same as the GTR section..so yeah

hope that helps..

na, havent tried SRT..is dats the yellow box? :rofl:

oh and ur mate wit the 180..

yeah..he did get the cheap/basic pads of that brand..

i beleive its ferodo excel??

correct if im wrong..

but i believe der equal to bendix GCT...which are about $50bucks

Cheers Guys + Bumble bee

After having a few talks with people who have owned and used SRT's i think its a bit overkill for street use... even tho i do have a few skid pans etc days.

So i think ill just go with bendix ulti's... they seem the best value for money in regards to good pads for street.

I got white wheels tho... so ill have to be cleaning them every week! dam dust.

Add a couple more to the list...

well from wat i heard..trade price anyways are around...

bendix gct - $50-60

bendix ultimates - $ 100-$120

Ferodo Excel - $60-80

Ferodo DS3000 - ?????

EBC Greenstuff - $200-250

EBC Redstuff - ??

Endless - ??

Lucus - ??

QFM HPX - $79 (Equivalent to Bendix Ultimate, minus the dust)

QFM A1RM - $119 (Equivalent to Bendix SRT or EBC Red)

QFM Performance

Feedback:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...t&p=4138203

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Br...t&p=4141983

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/820679-post3.html

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showpost.php...mp;postcount=13

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
    • HG's high flow is not "bolt on". The core is shorter, moves the comp cover rearwards in the engine bay. means you have to deal with the inlet plumbing a little bit. This is probably something to consider with every "bolt on" turbo anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...