Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Run On My R33 Done Today :)

SLYDA

By SLYDA,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
Posted (edited)

Had my car back on the Dyno today due to some issues I was having and thought id post the graph.

It was done on a DynaPac Hub Dyno.. Its interesting looking at other peoples results the difference in curves from a roller to hub dyno.

nl7xao.jpg

Edited by SLYDA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241318-power-run-on-my-r33-done-today/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

140rwkw @ 4000rpm... jebus, thats fairly unresponsive, especially for a .68

You should be seeing a show at least 500rpm sooner, if not sooner than that again. Its nearly 4500rpm before its working and my GT30 (.86) was on sooner than that. Also the hump around 5250 shouldn't be there, tune might need attention perhaps

Do you have the right actuator/running high enough off the actuator?

And why doesn't the graph go to at least 7000rpm?

Was this before or after your issues were fixed? (what was the problem?)

Peak power is good, about what you'd expect, i wanna see 7k though as you can see its still climbing ;)

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Possibly, have you pulled em out and checked for visual cracks etc?

Actually, just thinking, on a HUB dyno... that means the power is even lower than what "rwkw" is based on.

So its less than 140rwkw @ 4000rpm...

You really have a problem dude, got a graph with the boost plot?

SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Problems getting worse and worse... it was missing up in the higer rev range on the dyno on the run, previous runs it had more power and didnt have that flatspot between 5000 and 5750RPM , now i cant take it over 4000RPM... Im guessing the coils are dead the timing was increased a few degree's further on that retune too. Ive done the silicon trick which didnt do a thing and plugs are gapped at 0.8. :).. Couldnt see any cracks or anything, they had previously been wrapped in electrical tape when i was first having issues years ago with the 1.1mm gap.

I can get a set of SuperSparks or whatever there called from Autobarn tommorow for $499 or something or splitfires off ebay for around $635 what does everyone think?

Edited by SLYDA
SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
  • Author
Posted
140rwkw @ 4000rpm... jebus, thats fairly unresponsive, especially for a .68

You should be seeing a show at least 500rpm sooner, if not sooner than that again. Its nearly 4500rpm before its working and my GT30 (.86) was on sooner than that. Also the hump around 5250 shouldn't be there, tune might need attention perhaps

Do you have the right actuator/running high enough off the actuator?

And why doesn't the graph go to at least 7000rpm?

Was this before or after your issues were fixed? (what was the problem?)

Peak power is good, about what you'd expect, i wanna see 7k though as you can see its still climbing :)

It was a full HKS Bolt on kit came with everything including the 10PSI actuator. The graph doesnt go to 7000RPM as they didnt wanna take a stock motor that far with the issues i was having. The issues i was having was the car idling like CRAP, it missing all through the rev range and high knock levels on different situations and what seemed to be ignition breakdown. And i agree about the boost comming on 500RPM too late, im looking at a printout off another car with a 3037 and it hits 17PSI at 3750RPM what would cause this?

Fuel pressure isnt an issue as its at 45PSI and I have 740cc Nismo Injectors mabee i have a manifold to turbo leak?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I think you need to set the actuator/boost control a lot better...

Hence getting a Boost/PSI graph :)

What are you using for boost control? I assume your running a EBC or Bleed Valve? as you have more than 10psi (actuator)

For now, it sounds like you need to set the actuator closer to the target boost (say 15psi), and then config your boost control/actuator from there

It's always better to get as close as you can off the actuator.

Obviously fix the other issues you have first. You wont know the car when its running boost 1500rpm sooner. It'll tear your nuts off and rev it upto 7000rpm :(

SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I think you need to set the actuator/boost control a lot better...

Hence getting a Boost/PSI graph :down:

What are you using for boost control? I assume your running a EBC or Bleed Valve? as you have more than 10psi (actuator)

For now, it sounds like you need to set the actuator closer to the target boost (say 15psi), and then config your boost control/actuator from there

It's always better to get as close as you can off the actuator.

Obviously fix the other issues you have first. You wont know the car when its running boost 1500rpm sooner. It'll tear your nuts off and rev it upto 7000rpm :(

Im actually using the Apexi Power FC Boost Control Kit and i actually do have a boost vs HP graph

pzxk.jpg

Settings are 1.3Bar Boost 67 for duty i think and then it had another number i couldnt change 200? but then i taped the duty up and down and it changed to 255? I gapped my plugs down to 0.6mm and thats got rid of a fair bit of the missfire issue but its still doing it, ive already purchased today over ebay a new set of Splitfires $635.

The only thing i think may be dodgy is the manifold to turbo gasket i used a thick one not the thin metal one would it be worth changing it? its going to be a massiveeee pain in the ass job to do, but i want my car running right.

Also my brakes are pissing me off as they keep squeeling, ive replaced the rotors, have TRW pads i think they are, have had the calipers overhauled but it seems to just want to keep glazing the pads! and to make things even better i think ive blown the ground track in the Pioneer DVD player and now im gettin engine noise through my stereo :ninja:..

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

16psi @ 5000pm... there's your problem.

Poorly setup boost control, simply put, whoever config'd/installed the AVC-R. Didnt do a good job, rather poor infact...

It doesnt help that they aren't one of the better EBC's either. Hard to setup, single solenoid etc etc

I reccomend this.

Get a decent actuator. Set it up to run 17psi, then see if you can tweak the AVC-R to bring on boost any earlier (incase the actuator opens slightly early).

If you get no change, sell the AVC-R, no use for it if you cant get it any better :ninja:

Wont be gasket related unless its not sealing, and thats easy to tell by looking at it and seeing if it had buildup around the area.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Duncan
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...