Power Run On My R33 Done Today :)

[SLYDA]

Had my car back on the Dyno today due to some issues I was having and thought id post the graph.

It was done on a DynaPac Hub Dyno.. Its interesting looking at other peoples results the difference in curves from a roller to hub dyno.

Edited October 22, 2008 by SLYDA

[PM-R33]

What turbo?

[SLYDA]

HKS GT3037 Pro S with a 0.68 Rear.

[tridentt150v]

Kicks in a bit later than I thought it should at 3500rpm. Is the motor std or have you lowered compression for more boost?

[R31Nismoid]

140rwkw @ 4000rpm... jebus, thats fairly unresponsive, especially for a .68

You should be seeing a show at least 500rpm sooner, if not sooner than that again. Its nearly 4500rpm before its working and my GT30 (.86) was on sooner than that. Also the hump around 5250 shouldn't be there, tune might need attention perhaps

Do you have the right actuator/running high enough off the actuator?

And why doesn't the graph go to at least 7000rpm?

Was this before or after your issues were fixed? (what was the problem?)

Peak power is good, about what you'd expect, i wanna see 7k though as you can see its still climbing

[SLYDA]

Yeh the car seemed to be missing up high in the rev range.. could this be the coils breaking down?

[R31Nismoid]

Possibly, have you pulled em out and checked for visual cracks etc?

Actually, just thinking, on a HUB dyno... that means the power is even lower than what "rwkw" is based on.

So its less than 140rwkw @ 4000rpm...

You really have a problem dude, got a graph with the boost plot?

[tridentt150v]

What ecu, injector size and pump are you using?

And the missing could be coils, could be plug gap.

[SLYDA]

Problems getting worse and worse... it was missing up in the higer rev range on the dyno on the run, previous runs it had more power and didnt have that flatspot between 5000 and 5750RPM , now i cant take it over 4000RPM... Im guessing the coils are dead the timing was increased a few degree's further on that retune too. Ive done the silicon trick which didnt do a thing and plugs are gapped at 0.8. .. Couldnt see any cracks or anything, they had previously been wrapped in electrical tape when i was first having issues years ago with the 1.1mm gap.

I can get a set of SuperSparks or whatever there called from Autobarn tommorow for $499 or something or splitfires off ebay for around $635 what does everyone think?

Edited October 23, 2008 by SLYDA

[SLYDA]

140rwkw @ 4000rpm... jebus, thats fairly unresponsive, especially for a .68

You should be seeing a show at least 500rpm sooner, if not sooner than that again. Its nearly 4500rpm before its working and my GT30 (.86) was on sooner than that. Also the hump around 5250 shouldn't be there, tune might need attention perhaps

Do you have the right actuator/running high enough off the actuator?

And why doesn't the graph go to at least 7000rpm?

Was this before or after your issues were fixed? (what was the problem?)

Peak power is good, about what you'd expect, i wanna see 7k though as you can see its still climbing

It was a full HKS Bolt on kit came with everything including the 10PSI actuator. The graph doesnt go to 7000RPM as they didnt wanna take a stock motor that far with the issues i was having. The issues i was having was the car idling like CRAP, it missing all through the rev range and high knock levels on different situations and what seemed to be ignition breakdown. And i agree about the boost comming on 500RPM too late, im looking at a printout off another car with a 3037 and it hits 17PSI at 3750RPM what would cause this?

Fuel pressure isnt an issue as its at 45PSI and I have 740cc Nismo Injectors mabee i have a manifold to turbo leak?

[R31Nismoid]

I think you need to set the actuator/boost control a lot better...

Hence getting a Boost/PSI graph

What are you using for boost control? I assume your running a EBC or Bleed Valve? as you have more than 10psi (actuator)

For now, it sounds like you need to set the actuator closer to the target boost (say 15psi), and then config your boost control/actuator from there

It's always better to get as close as you can off the actuator.

Obviously fix the other issues you have first. You wont know the car when its running boost 1500rpm sooner. It'll tear your nuts off and rev it upto 7000rpm

[tridentt150v]

And I'd check on this forum, some of the advertisers here sell Splitfires for a lot less than your ebay price. eg....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...il-t183483.html

[SLYDA]

I think you need to set the actuator/boost control a lot better...

Hence getting a Boost/PSI graph

What are you using for boost control? I assume your running a EBC or Bleed Valve? as you have more than 10psi (actuator)

For now, it sounds like you need to set the actuator closer to the target boost (say 15psi), and then config your boost control/actuator from there

It's always better to get as close as you can off the actuator.

Obviously fix the other issues you have first. You wont know the car when its running boost 1500rpm sooner. It'll tear your nuts off and rev it upto 7000rpm

Im actually using the Apexi Power FC Boost Control Kit and i actually do have a boost vs HP graph

Settings are 1.3Bar Boost 67 for duty i think and then it had another number i couldnt change 200? but then i taped the duty up and down and it changed to 255? I gapped my plugs down to 0.6mm and thats got rid of a fair bit of the missfire issue but its still doing it, ive already purchased today over ebay a new set of Splitfires $635.

The only thing i think may be dodgy is the manifold to turbo gasket i used a thick one not the thin metal one would it be worth changing it? its going to be a massiveeee pain in the ass job to do, but i want my car running right.

Also my brakes are pissing me off as they keep squeeling, ive replaced the rotors, have TRW pads i think they are, have had the calipers overhauled but it seems to just want to keep glazing the pads! and to make things even better i think ive blown the ground track in the Pioneer DVD player and now im gettin engine noise through my stereo ..

[R31Nismoid]

16psi @ 5000pm... there's your problem.

Poorly setup boost control, simply put, whoever config'd/installed the AVC-R. Didnt do a good job, rather poor infact...

It doesnt help that they aren't one of the better EBC's either. Hard to setup, single solenoid etc etc

I reccomend this.

Get a decent actuator. Set it up to run 17psi, then see if you can tweak the AVC-R to bring on boost any earlier (incase the actuator opens slightly early).

If you get no change, sell the AVC-R, no use for it if you cant get it any better

Wont be gasket related unless its not sealing, and thats easy to tell by looking at it and seeing if it had buildup around the area.