Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know there is a thread on this... i had a read but can't find my exact setup.

just curious... cheers.

Car: 89 R32 GT-R

Mods:

Fresh engine -

-CP Forged pistons

-ARP Head studs

-Metal head gasket

-Stock rods

-stock cams

-ACL bearings

-full reco head (all stock)

-N1 Oil Pump

-New water pump

-stock fpr and fuel rail

-BOSCH 023 pump

-Garrett TO4z (.84 rear housing i think)

-Turbosmart 50mm Ext. gate

-Power FC

-Z32 AFM's

-Blitz 700cc injectors

-HKS Pod's

-stock cooler with HKS piping

-3 1/2" exhaust from turbo to rear cannon.

a rough guess anyone?

cheers.

- Elec boost controller to come.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241423-power-estimate/
Share on other sites

i'd say he'll run out of fuel before he hits that.. also need some pretty decent headwork to pull that sorta a power figure from a t04z... not to mention that hes running stock rods, which are a known weakpoint in the rb26's

if you push any more than about 350rwkw you risk bending a rod. not sure how much that fuel pump can support either... you should be talking to your engine builder/tuner about this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241423-power-estimate/#findComment-4214456
Share on other sites

not to mention that hes running stock rods, which are a known weakpoint in the rb26's

if you push any more than about 350rwkw you risk bending a rod.

FAIL!

Plenty of strong engines out there using the std rods. That are actually quite good and can support those power levels quite easily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241423-power-estimate/#findComment-4214531
Share on other sites

^^ agreed.

bent rod @ 350rwkw... not a chance.

Plenty of CIRCUIT motors with BIG RPM 380rwkw+, stock rods.

I dunno where you get a known weak point from. I've never even seen someone post here since 2002 about bending a GTR rod thats how good they are.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241423-power-estimate/#findComment-4214638
Share on other sites

i dont know any people risking a $6-8k forged motor putting out close to 500hp on standard rods.. maybe its a Vic thing ? :) For the sake of <$1k, its worth the peace of mind. weakpoint was referring to the fact that the block and crank can take 800hp+, and stock pistons will generally withstand quite a bit too (if you replace the rings).

Im not saying they will fail @ 350.... but your getting close to the limits imo. each to their own, its your motor !

Regardless, it seems to me that your three quarters of the way through a build. Do yourself a favour, save up a few grand and finish it properly. Rods, cams, port+polish, some other headwork (valve springs) and the fuel system and you can hit 600hp+ safely and it will drive better. Although keep in mind 700cc injectors would be getting pretty high duty cycle to try and push out 600hp... i'd be thinking about upgrading those too (shouldnt cost you much if your happy to sell yours and buy second hand). else, just keep the boost to ~21psi and enjoy your 550 horsies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241423-power-estimate/#findComment-4214786
Share on other sites

People have done 440rwkw consistently on GTR Rods (ala-Paul)... and he's not the only one.

Plenty of GTR's getting around with close to 400rwkw, stock rods.

So thats another 100rwkw, or what, another 180odd hp @ the motor, nothing to sneeze at, at all in my book.

Why spend $1000 if you dont have to though?

Its like say spend the money on cams, you dont need those either so why spend the $600odd+labour?

Same with Plenums ($800+) and everything else, if you dont need it and stock is perfectly fine... stands to reason that you use it

So you can kinda see my point.. suddenly $1000 can turn into 3k+ for no real reason other than spending it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241423-power-estimate/#findComment-4214833
Share on other sites

Engine build is done, its cost me alot to get it this far, i was spending money on other area's of the car not only the engine, so money was going quick..lol.. so i just replaced the things I thought really needed replacing, i had no power figure in mind at the time, but after each mod i did, it seemed a waste to not upgrade the next thing in line. (this can continue on and on.... cams, head work, etc. but money doesn't continue on).

and that (1st post) is what i ended up with.

400kw would be great... i only had about 200kw before the build.

so would my fuel pump be upto the 400kw or so?

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241423-power-estimate/#findComment-4215084
Share on other sites

my engine is currently being built atm aswell

im looking for about 350kw+ @ wheels with about 20 psi

hopefully i can achieve it.

the sort of work that i am doing

upgrading turbos to

GT2860

PowerFC

Forged Rods

Forged Pistons

Sard injectors

Sumb baffle

Metal head gasket

N1 oil Pump

and alot of other little gizzmoes.

let me know what you guys think.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241423-power-estimate/#findComment-4215312
Share on other sites

Cams, fpr and intercooler are proberbly the ownly limiting things, all will start be a pain before 350awkw, rods with good tune should take 400awkw, 700cc should be same.

Do your engine a favour get get rid of the HKS pods if they are the foam type as they don't seal real good where the foam weets the plastic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241423-power-estimate/#findComment-4215348
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...