Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sumfatchin:

0.76bar = 11psi (1bar=14.48psi)

I have never used tolulene but it would reduce knocking. Do a search and I'm sure you'd find some info on it.

The fuel cut dosen't work because I've completely disconnected the standard boost solenoid, so the ECU isnt getting a boost signal. (I'm using an EBC)

Advan_01:

I'm not going to take my stock turbo past 0.8bar now. On the very rare occasion I'd run 1.0bar (very cold nite, 1 run)

And finally, my problem definately bad fuel, I ran it out, and filled up with fresh Ultimate, reset the ECU, threw in some injector cleaner to be safe and it improved straight away....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24153-turbo-boost/#findComment-518698
Share on other sites

Advan 01,

I would advise not increasing the boost much until you get a front mount (if you do get one that is). The stock cooler has a pretty big pressure drop, and as you measure boost from the plenum, you may read 10psi, but acutally be making 16+ - not good.

As the stock interwarmer does not remove much heat from the charge air the risk of detonation is greatly increased too.

With a full 3" system you probably already have around 9psi. The problem with the stock turbo is the ceramic turbine wheel, which is prone to shatter when under too much load. The load not only comes from exhaust pressure but also from the impeller trying to compress the air as well, so it cops it from both sides.

I have always been told to not increase boost unless I have a FMIC, and then only to go to about 12.5lbs (0.85bar). With 0.85 bar I made 203rwkw, so I was pretty happy. I never went above this and the turbo lived a happy life until I sold it and it was still in excellent condition.

I have heard alot of stories of guys killing their turbos at 1 bar (on an R33), doesnt always happen, depends on how long they boost it for at that pressure, and what sort of condition the turbo is in. But you cant guarantee it will last either.

I would recommend keeping boost to about 9-10psi on stock cooler, get a decent front mount, then go up to 12.5bar or so. With the stock cooler I doubt it would make a huge difference anyways between 10 and 12 psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24153-turbo-boost/#findComment-519041
Share on other sites

hate the stock interwarmers...hehe

anything over 12psi with the stock cooler gives stuff all power increase, The extra flow is negated by high inlet temps. FMIC will put higher boost to better use. Expect ~ 20odd rwkw with a good front mount and 1bar and a another 15-20 with a Power FC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24153-turbo-boost/#findComment-519075
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...